A light at the end of the tunnel

The food at Zenkichi takes a back seat to the actual seats within in this zen labyrinth hidden in plain site on North 6th Street in Williamsburg. And unless you've been to this windowless Japanese fun-house before it's easy to walk right by the unassuming door-front. But once you find your way in, you will be led through a venerable maze of dark wood, candle-lit shadows, oddly placed mirrors and bamboo curtains concealing private dinning booths and culinary secrets. Once seated in your cozy booth you can only begin to imagine what devious acts are taking place merely feet away from you. You struggle to make out the face of another patron amid the dark lighting and optical allusion created by the setting. You hear voices in the distance only to find no person connected to them. It's fun and romantic and unlike most restaurants in NY.

Ring the table top silent buzzer and a waitress appears and lifts the curtain to take your order. While the a la cart menu has many appealing dishes the $65, 8-course tasting is the way to go. Cover all your bases and give into the labyrinth. The menu changes seasonally but you can likely count on fresh sashimi, seasonable vegetables, a tempura dish and my favorite, the Zenkichi Salad (a simple dish of greens, homemade soft tofu, peanuts and a light sesame dressing). Other standouts off the tasting menu were the flaky and sweet Miso Cod and the Yellowtail Donburi (delicious tuna over perfectly seasoned rice). Several choices for desserts which the table should share and I recommend a scoop of Walnut Chocolate Pudding goes really well with a sliver of Black Sesame Mouse all cut by the Milk Tofu. A few bottles of sake and you may not want to (or be able to) find your way out of the maze. And while I'm not running back so quickly for the food, I found my evening within this Japanese labyrinth to be a very Zen one.

Zenkichi
77 North 6th Street, Williamsburg, Bkyln