Sunday, September 25, 2011

Scarpetta: Italian Food for Non-Italian Food lovers

I realize that I am somewhat of an oddity because I don't love love love Italian food. And I know that for many people a heaping plate of pasta, a nice glass of chianti and lots and lots of bread dipped in olive oil is all they need for a happy night. But while that isn't my idea of a particularly exciting or fully satisfying meal it doesn't mean I can't appreciate an incredible Italian experience when it's upon me...and having eaten at Scarpetta several times now I can say this is the place to enjoy Italian food.

Scarpetta is an incredible blend of elegant, chic comfort and freshly perfected Italian craftsmanship. And that sensibility shines through in every dish. They worship fresh ingredients and treat those ingredients with the respect and attention needed. Dishes are not over-seasoned; you can look at the plate and practically see every ingredient in the dish. And that is what makes them perfect in their simplicity.

To begin, the Raw Yellowtail drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with flaked pink sea salt is so fresh and sweet and good you might wonder why every meal isn't this uncomplicated and delicious. If only every Italian restaurant would stop wasting ingredients and resolve to serve basic, high quality food; letting their fresh flavors shine through.

Next comes the Pièce de résistance or as my mother refers to it "the dish that Jay-Z and Beyonce eat when they come here"...anyway, it is quite possibly the simplest of all the dishes on the menu: Spaghetti, tomato & basil. That's it. Three ingredients. End of story, goodnight.

Just kidding. The Spaghetti at Scarpetta is just so damn good. And it is only three ingredients. But those ingredients are the best versions of themselves and proportioned in a way that bite after bite you will find yourself ascending an ethereal food coma. If I'm not overstating it enough--simplicity is near perfection! And Scarpetta is the closest I've come to a perfect Italian meal. Goodnight (for real).

Scarpetta
355 West 14th Street @ 9th Ave
New York, NY

Monday, September 19, 2011

In the mood for Mexican?

It's a rare occasion when I find myself really in the mood for Mexican. It's not that I don't enjoy a good margarita with guac & chips, it's just that the cuisine itself doesn't often leave me that satisfied...culinarily.

But when the mood does strike me (as I'd say it does strongly about thrice a year) there are a few places that meet my high standards for quality Mexican. Recently I had the opportunity to visit two of said establishments.

Mercadito is a great East Village spot--seemingly very small from the street but enter the back room and you'll feel like you've been transported to a Mexican Hacienda smack in the middle of the city. Mercadito has an impressive selection of adorable, little, fun-for-sharing tacos with ingredients such as ancho rubbed pork with grilled pineapple, sauteed tilapia with grilled corn & manchego or chicken with sweet plantains. And who could forget the excellent variety of the guacamole (chunky with fruit or freshly smoked, yum!). But my personal favorite are the ceviches and wouldn't you know it you can order a "sampler" and get 3 at once! The tiny scallops with strawberries, key lime-habanero broth and mint! The mahi-mahi with avacado, tomato and orange-chile! The octopus, shrimp, jicama and orange! Yum Yum Yum! The ceviches are so good they have me rethinking my 3 times a year Mexican fix.

For the times I find myself wandering the West Village and the Mexican food craving hits, I really enjoy the new hot spot, Empellon. Empellon is the love child of Alex Stupak, former pastry chef from WD~50 and Alinea, who apparently is equally adept at making tacos as he is making avant garde desserts. In this setting you'll find the crowd is a little fancier and so is the food. The guacamole is creamy not chunky and the cocktails have fancy oak aged Reposado tequila. But the tacos, oh the tacos. My personal favorite is the sweet Scallops with cauliflower, capers and raisins. The Skirt Steak with olive oil, lime and toasted garlic was a hit at the table too. And who could forget the sides--the Refried Black Beans with a spicy habanero kick and the Sweet Plantains were delicious.

After dining at these two fantastic Mexican restaurants I think my cravings are gonna be coming a little more frequently...

Monday, September 12, 2011

Uptown at the Four Seasons

You've probably guessed by now that I live downtown. And it must seem like I rarely go above 14th street unless a paycheck is involved but about once a year my family ventures uptown (and back in time) to the original old school fancy pants eatery...the Four Seasons. Pool side of course.

I like to begin an evening at the 4S by letting the waiter know I've been there before by proudly ordering the souffle before he can offer it (it takes a while to prepare so they insist you order it with cocktails but we'll get to desserts later).

The food at the 4S is consistently good and elegant but it's not mindblowing. The real thrill of being there is the experience of being there itself. The waitstaff that's been on salary for a quarter century and probably make more than your CEO. The shimmery window coverings that look like an elegant copper gown. And then there actually is the clientele at the next table wearing an elegant copper gown and dripping with more diamonds than 47th street herself. It's a fun place to people watch and to aimlessly stare at the Picasso tapestry and Rothko Reds on the wall. Notice yet again that the food isn't the focus. And while the food is excellent it wouldn't be the same without the setting.

Over the years I can recall great steaks and excellent Cesar salads and delicate, moist fishes but not one really stands out. It's a good place to go for your parents wedding anniversary or a big birthday. Everyone talks about the famous power lunches that take place in the Grill Room but for me it will always be my big fancy New York dinner in that cold yet rich feeling Pool Room.

Oh yes, the desserts. I said I'd come back to them. Worth noting that the souffles are amazing and we always have two (one for the table and one for me of course). But my sister always lights up when they bring out the heaping mountain of cotton candy which hides a surprise ice cream scoop. The cotton candy isn't on the menu but by now almost every other table is eating one so shoot a sweet smile to the Maitre D' and you're in!

The Four Seasons
99 East 52nd Street btw Park & Lex

Tuesday, September 6, 2011

Simpler times at Corner Bistro

Ahh...Corner Bistro...brings me back to a simpler time in my life when running around the city until all hours of the night and sustaining myself on burgers and beer seemed a viable existence...cue Barbara Streisand singing "Memories."

The famous burgers and beer watering-hole has long been a cornerstone for students, tourists, and New Yorkers alike. Corner Bistro is less of a restaurant and more of a youthful time and place for me. Are the burgers that much better than the ones from your regular greasy spoon grill down the street? It's debatable. But you can't go to Corner Bistro without magically being transported to a pre-workaday stress life...or maybe it's all the $2.50 beers you consume while being on line for 45 minutes that brings you to a better state of mind.

Either way by the time you get your seat and take a bite into that famous Bistro Burger (with cheese and bacon) you will have a new appreciation for the concept of delayed gratification. The burger and perfectly thin, crispy fries will be exactly what you had hoped they would be after 45 minutes of McSorely's Ales and anticipation.

Corner Bistro
331 West 4th St. at Jane