Every fiber in my being says I should not like Niko. It's loud and pretentious and feels more like an 80's themed nightclub than a Japanese restaurant. But then comes the fish and there is no other way to describe it than excellent. Somehow this restaurant disguised as a club is serving some of the most satisfying sushi around. And they make a pretty mean Lychee Sake-tini too if you ask me.
Arrive at this Mercer Street newcomer and you're beaconed up a flight of stairs into a trendy, shiny and highly decorated space. And in case the night club vibe isn't complete, was that a model as your hostess and is the sushi chef wearing a colorful do-rag -- yes that was and yes he is. Nevermind those facts and order the food. The pieces are excellent and might be even more enthralling given the setting.
I know I must sound like a minimalist sushi snob. One who expects my sushi to come in an artisinally carved natural wood box served to me in at a restaurant which matches that description. So you'll understand my surprise when I find a place so gratifying that fits more with 4 inch heals and feels more like the start of an all-nighter. I guess you can't judge the sushi by the box it comes in. Niko taught me that.Niko (currently closed)
170 Mercer Street
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