Saturday, November 26, 2011

The writing on the wall...

I'm sitting here at Graffiti on East 10th Street rudely typing away while my husband stares aimlessly at our communal table dining companions. To the unsuspecting patron across the table I must look very important because I'm clearly responding to a work email but really I'm too excited to wait to say just how good Graffiti really is.

I recently heard that the television writers for one of my childhood favorites (Pete & Pete) put parameters on their writing that everything should be "funny, sad, strange, beautiful" and for some reason that struck me. I think that's a perfect lens to look at life. So it's rather strange and beautiful that we ended up dining at Graffiti tonight. The food at Graffiti feels vaguely Spanish and Indian but that fusion works and the results are definitely beautiful. There are elements of Modern Spanish cuisine in the combinations of ingredients and presentation. And there are Indian influences in the spices that linger on your tongue and the smells that waft over you while you dine. It's a lovely sensory experience.

We started with the Pickled Ginger Scallops over a candied red chili glaze--the scallops were so sweet and delicate but balanced by the flash of heat from the chilies--it was subtle and powerful at the same time. Next the Pork Dumplings with a sweet grapefruit confit covered with strangely, crispy chickpea flakes--the different textures and combination of the hearty pork and airy dumplings created a truly enjoyable bite. To be honest the pork buns didn't wow me but the Skate with mint yogurt sauce more than made up for them. Finally, on to dessert which was amazing. Hazelnut chocolate caviar cupcake with chocolate chip ice cream. Doesn't that just sound delicious? I'll say it again; hazelnut chocolate caviar cupcake with chocolate chip ice cream. Yum. This lightly sweet hazelnut cake covered with whimsical crispy chocolate caviar spheres accompanied by chocolate chip ice cream truly finished the evening right. The whole experience fit my new mold of funny, strange, beautiful and the sad part is that it had to end.

Graffiti
224 East 10th Street btw 1/2 Ave

Sunday, November 20, 2011

People will not stop talking about Torrisi Italian Specialties.

The Torrisi guys have saved traditional locally-sourced rustic Italian cuisine! The Torrisi guys have revamped the San Genarro festival and made Mulberry Street hipster-foodie approved! The Torrisi guys have revolutionized mozzarella by putting it on a stick! There has been so much non-stop buzz around these guys and their Italian food cottage industry that I decided it was high time to check out all the buzz for myself. And I'll admit it, I arrived a little skeptical -- after all these guys have more hype surrounding them than that time Angelina & Brad walked through that airport.

My skepticism was magnified when I found out that in order to dine at Torrisi one must queue up at 4:30pm and wait for a host to mysteriously appear from behind a literal veil of lace curtains for the opportunity to get one of three seatings for later that night. When you walk by the Mulberry street storefront in mid-afternoon, there is a line of fidgety foodies clamoring to be invited past the veiled window. What the old fashion window coverings are protecting is a mystery that only adds to aura and hype. Perhaps the veil is to protect the patrons who've made it in from the glaring oohs and ahhs of onlookers. Or perhaps instead to protect the passer-bys from the splendor that exists just beyond their reach. No matter what the reason the whole meal felt shrouded in secrecy and wonder. And I found it particularly comical when a random couple walked in at 8:30pm and asked for a table on the spot...ha! Those imbeciles! Don't they know what the rest of us have gone through to eat here?!?

Anyway, once we were finally seated and the wine started flowing I began to see, and be swept into, the hype. There is no formal menu, only an ever evolving prefix where the only choice your faced with is between two entrees. Luckily my table is the sharing kind so we get to try it all. We began with oysters - 2 per person - to get our palates going. Then on to the hand-pulled, house-made mozzarella in DaVero olive oil accompanied by buttery garlic bread with tomato (good start). Next the broccoli salad with crispy shallots (yum). Followed by the deliciously tender grilled octopus doused in a pepperoni vinaigrette (really delicious). The extremely delicate lambs tongue gyro followed (unbelievable). The dirty duck ragu over perfectly al dente Gemellis (holy cow that was yummy). Then onto the mains; Skate with pickled cauliflower and spicy Devil's Chicken over tangy yogurt (YAY!). We ended the meal with a venerable cornucopia of Italian pasties (and we asked for seconds of a few). Another bottle of wine and we called it a night. [Actually we sang like 20 rounds of karaoke at a bar around the corner but then we called it a truly satisfying night.]

And I'll admit, with all the buzz surrounding these guys and their recent food endeavors it was wonderful to walk away feeling that you can actually believe the hype.

Torrisi Italian Specialties
250 Mulberry Street