Uptown at the Four Seasons

You've probably guessed by now that I live downtown. And it must seem like I rarely go above 14th street unless a paycheck is involved but about once a year my family ventures uptown (and back in time) to the original old school fancy pants eatery...the Four Seasons. Pool side of course.

I like to begin an evening at the 4S by letting the waiter know I've been there before by proudly ordering the souffle before he can offer it (it takes a while to prepare so they insist you order it with cocktails but we'll get to desserts later).

The food at the 4S is consistently good and elegant but it's not mindblowing. The real thrill of being there is the experience of being there itself. The waitstaff that's been on salary for a quarter century and probably make more than your CEO. The shimmery window coverings that look like an elegant copper gown. And then there actually is the clientele at the next table wearing an elegant copper gown and dripping with more diamonds than 47th street herself. It's a fun place to people watch and to aimlessly stare at the Picasso tapestry and Rothko Reds on the wall. Notice yet again that the food isn't the focus. And while the food is excellent it wouldn't be the same without the setting.

Over the years I can recall great steaks and excellent Cesar salads and delicate, moist fishes but not one really stands out. It's a good place to go for your parents wedding anniversary or a big birthday. Everyone talks about the famous power lunches that take place in the Grill Room but for me it will always be my big fancy New York dinner in that cold yet rich feeling Pool Room.

Oh yes, the desserts. I said I'd come back to them. Worth noting that the souffles are amazing and we always have two (one for the table and one for me of course). But my sister always lights up when they bring out the heaping mountain of cotton candy which hides a surprise ice cream scoop. The cotton candy isn't on the menu but by now almost every other table is eating one so shoot a sweet smile to the Maitre D' and you're in!

The Four Seasons
99 East 52nd Street btw Park & Lex