Love for Locanda Verde...just don't call it brunch.

I'm not a fan of brunch. In fact, I just don't understand the appeal of the whole thing. Wake up early, presumably hung over, go battle with other equally bleary eyed and hungry crankies only to wait an hour for a table that was supposed to be ready 20 minutes ago, and once seated sip watered down, high calorie cocktails while the chef grits his teeth because he presumably had to get up even earlier and probably even more hung over. Whoa. I just worked myself up quite a bit. And over what? A meal that is trying to find it's place between breakfast and lunch. I'm sorry. Brunch can be great...

And when I do find my self up-and-at-em before noon on a Sunday the first place I want to find myself is Locanda Verde. Fact is I'd be happy to find myself there for any meal but they seem to be doing something extra special for 'brunch' and who am I to argue with excellence.

I recommend beginning with an order of the Sheep’s Milk Ricotta for the table; the creamy and light cheese is sweetly complimented by truffle honey and rosemary atop sweet and crunchy burnt orange toast. Yum. For the brunch-inclined the roasted Zucchini Frittata with tomato, goat cheese and basil is the best version of a brunch frittata I've had. The light and airy lemon Ricotta Pancakes with

blueberries and meyer lemon curd are fluffy and delicately sweet. For the ones amongst us who really don't like brunch any of the more traditional menu items like Steak Tartare with hazelnuts, truffles and crispy guanciale or one of the sophisticated and hearty pastas or sandwiches should do the trick.

The vibe at LV feels like rustic country house meets Tribecca artist loft. The tall windows, high ceilings and immaculate open kitchen invites you in, wakes you up and welcomes you to the day. The friendly staff, variety of pastries and milk types (I always appreciate a restaurant that caters to the skim, soy, and other type of milk drinkers) and the excellent food could turn even the staunchest anti-bruncher among us into a believer. And dare I say, it may have gotten to me. Because after a few brunches at Locanda Verde, I think I'll be getting up bright eyed to be there at noon next week.

Locanda Verde
377 Greenwich St
(corner of N.Moore and Greenwich)

Another place to call home

There we found ourselves, drinking a third glass of House Made Apple Bourbon with Chef Mark Gold at Eva Restaurant and I'm realizing that LA is great. Ok, I've said it and now it's out of my system and I love NYC again. But after several fabulous weekends in LA I can say that the West Coast has a lot going for it. And our evening shared at Eva was just another reason to love LA.

Walk into the warm restaurant and immediately you're at ease. Sample one of their delightful libations and you feel lighter. Peruse their seasonal and ever-evolving menu and you'll be awed by the self-described classic French technique with a touch of Japanese flavor presented as modern American fare. Personally, I was moved by the attention to detail; the passion Chef Mark has for curating a meal dictated by what's fresh that day, and the love that Mark and his wife Alejandra have put into Eva (the name of their restaurant and daughter).

On the evening we found ourselves at Eva the fresh catch of the day included a single, succulent prawn, simply prepared and flavorful. The Salmon and Hamachi were equally beautiful in their fresh simplicity. The Udon Noodles with Dungeness Crab, delicate cream brown butter and lemon was so delicious it was devoured moments after it arrived at our table. And finally the star of the show was one of the most tender bites of Wagyu Beef I've ever tasted, drizzled with a  mustard Béarnaise the beef melted like candy in our mouths. The entire meal was fantastic but what I'll take away most from our meal at Eva was the experience itself. Mark and Alejandra opened this extension of their home to our family and they had a hard time getting us to leave. After several bottles of wine, post dinner drinks and the aforementioned Apple Bourbon we closed the place down and started making requests on their iPhone playlist. We had so much fun sitting around the cozy wood bar that the time flew by and we lost ourselves a little. And when the time finally came for us to leave and pick up our cars from the valet (so LA), Chef Mark ran out the door after us to offer one last bite of incredible Salted Caramels from Littlejohn's candies. And with that final gesture of hospitality, that little extra act of kindness as we put Eva in our rearview mirrors will stay with me and remind me that when we next find ourselves in LA, they'll be a little piece of home to come back to.


Eva Restaurant
7458 Beverly Boulevard, LA 90036

The bizarre side of The Bazaar.

Few things in life make me as giddy as Spanish-style Modern Cuisine. How fun it is to eat something that has been cleverly re-imagined, re-designed and re-dreamed into a version of itself that previously only existed in culinary fantasies. And now, through the wonderment of science and the artistry of  craftsman Chefs we can eat our food fantasies like mini edible masterpieces. Recently at The Bazaar at Los Angeles' SLS Hotel we sampled fanciful modern interpretations of Spanish Tapas by Chef José Andrés. Chef Andrés is a master at turning a recipe on it's side and making it extraordinary.

The atmosphere at The Bazaar is like the 1980's movie Tron crashed into an excessive bordello on Mars. And the food fits the wild setting. We began the evening with one of the famous cocktails and watched the magic begin. The delicious Caipirinha is created tableside and frozen with smoking liquid nitrous. The resulting cocktail is a cross between the perfect cachaça and lime drink with an elegant slushy from 7Eleven, garnished with flash frozen flower petals of course. The passion fruit cocktail made with orange rum, passion fruit and topped with passion fruit foam was like the best dessert I've ever tasted (but wait until I actually get to dessert!).

The dinner menu is divided into Traditional and Modern Tapas; we mainly stuck to the modern side and opted to enjoy the beautifully bizarre side of The Bazaar. Beginning our culinary adventure with an order of olives which consisted of traditional olives - speared by toothpicks and stuffed with peppers and anchovies, and modern olives - perfectly smooth olive colored spheres. Slide the sphere into your mouth and like a delicate balloon it erupts with delicious flavor and then floats down your throat. While this technique is becoming common in modern preparations it never ceases to surprise and delight me.

We followed the olive amuse with a fabulously whimsical caprese salad which also came with liquefied mozzarella balls as well as dehydrated-rehydrated tomatoes. The burst of mozzarella with the delicate tomatoes accompanied by a traditional pesto was a fantastic combination to hold in your mouth. Almost everything we ordered is worthy of its own dedicated review but in the interest of (some) brevity I'll condense. The Linguini, which is literally called "Your Life Will Change Dashi Linguini," includes light pasta strands, fresh grated Parmesan, tomatoes, basil and delicious little quail eggs. Mix all the ingredients together and savor. The other standout, which came highly recommended, was the Philly Cheesesteak. Whoa. This pop-over style airy bread is filled with liquid cheddar and topped with tender Wagyu beef. Can I say whoa again?

Dessert is less of an item that stands out and more of an experience itself. After indulging in one of the several dinning rooms you are led into an actual candy room filled with chocolates and pastries and confections, oh my. We just had to order a few for the sake of the blog. And we decided on the chocolate pop-rocks and the Floating Coconut Island with passion fruit and vanilla. Both were playful and light and the right way to end this decadent and delightfully modern evening.

The Bazaar by José Andrés
465 South La Cienega Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA

La La Land Getaway

Ordinarily when I think about Los Angeles visions of Alvy Singer postulating about how the only 'cultural advantage [to LA] is that you can make a right turn on a red light' or that defensive knee jerk reaction a native New Yorker gets when someone suggest West coast living is preferable. But recently LA has meant sunshine and fabulous sushi dinners since my husband's job has brought him West for some extended trips. And I've had the good fortune to tag along.

I want to begin by reiterating that I love New York. My heart and soul live in the gritty, sophisticated, cultural Mecca where I reside approximately 320 days a year, give or take a few for vacations, weddings and other out of town functions. But when I find myself so far out of town that the zip code begins with 90--- I sometimes have to remind myself why I love New York as much as I do. With all the sunshine and fine sushi and healthy looking youthful free spirited people it's easy to understand why people are drawn West. I mean my goodness, the gym near our hotel was like a celebrity and toned, tan people convention.

But almost more of a draw for me than the weather and the smiling silicon faces is the culinary scene happening in LA. There are literally infinite unmarked, unassuming sushi spots serving some of the best fish state-side. And some incredible chef's are taking advantage of the proximity to the ocean and year-round fresh produce in addition to the healthy lifestyle and plethora of big bank accounts in the area. All of these things have created the perfect storm of a fine-dining/sushi-loving community.

Sasabune. The original "Just Trust Us" place. Also known as the "No California roll, no spicy tuna, no tempora" place. Set in a non-descript office plaza, this no frills establishments is serving anything but basic sushi. When they say just trust us, they mean it. Eat what they give you, only use sauce when instructed and sit back and enjoy for the ride. It will be worth it.

Hiko. Another very unassuming strip mall sushi-spot. The ambiance is taco stand meets mall sushi counter but the fish is incredible. The pieces were unique and deliberately selected. I'm not usually blown away by tuna but the Albacore and Toro Chef Hiko was serving were some of the most buttery, melt-in-your mouth things I've ever tasted. The Catalina Uni tasted like what I imagine ocean-flavored ice cream. The Ikura (Salmon Roe) were crisp, fresh and like little bursts of flavor.

Sushi Park. This unassuming yet "in-the-know" sushi spot is also in a strip mall serving omakase only. The fish is quite possibly some of the best I have ever tasted; each little jewel-like bite is unbelievably delicious. The buttery consistency and sweet salt-water flavor bursting forth will weaken your knees. The plates arrive quickly but you still have time to appreciate their artful splendor. It would be hard to narrow a favorite of the evening but among the stand-outs were the Toro, Orange Razor Clam, Scallop, Uni, and Unagi Eel.

Hatfield's (bonus, non-sushi). Michelin starred and named one of LA's Best New Restaurant, this husband & wife chef/pastry chef team is creating a special dining experience. The warm and open restaurant as well as the varied and flexible menu allows one to dine the way they want to. Mix and match items off of tasting menus or do the Prix-Fix. The food is elegantly rustic and made merely steps from your table in a lovely open kitchen. We loved all the appetizers, including their decadent and signature Croque Madame and the Salmon entree was perfectly cooked.



Finally, worthy of it's own post...check back soon for my musings on the fabulous cocktails and fanciful modern food at The Bazaar at SLS Hotel.

After our culinary whirlwind in LA and now that I'm back in overcast NYC...I find myself questioning my die-hard East Coast lifestyle. Maybe a little LA getaway is better than I (or Alvy Singer) originally thought.

I hate that I love ketchup.

I love ketchup. Always have. It's been said that french fries, to me, are merely a vehicle to deliver the sweet red condiment to my mouth. The proportion of ketchup to ketchup delivery vehicle often borders on obscene, but it would be unladylike to just eat it with a spoon, right? But as much as I enjoy the tomato based condiment, every fiber in my being also thinks it's disgusting. The concentrated, mass produced, high fructose corn syrup laden variety that we've all grown up with has lost a little of it's gelatinous luster to me since I learned that one of the main ingredients is "natural flavoring." Why does a product made from vegetables need natural flavoring? Something's amiss in the kitchen if the vegetables can't naturally flavor the recipe* on their own.

But, there is hope for our palettes yet. I recently sampled two types of Sir Kensington's Gourmet Scooping Ketchup and I was delighted to find this new product on the market (and available at some fantastic restaurants). Sir Kensington's Classic ketchup was hearty and full of flavor. You could actually taste the ingredients** and they were naturally sweet, marinara-like and delicious. The Spiced ketchup had a peppery kick; savory yet smooth salsa-like which complimented sweet potato or regular french fries perfectly. Both were wholesome and absolutely delicious. No aftertaste, no artificiality, nothing but naturally perfect ketchup; which makes it easy to love.

Comparing Sir Kensington's ketchup with the brand we're all used to (practically the brand which is synonymous with ketchup itself) I found the later tasted sharp, artificial, generic and saccharine. Even sitting side by side, one was oddly smooth with a high-gloss sheen and one looked real with ingredients you could see and taste. One tasted puckeringly unnatural and one tasted mouthwateringly wholesome. And after eating a meal accompanied by Sir Kensington's product I can now say that I no longer hate that I love ketchup and I can proudly say that I just love ketchup...Sir Kensington's ketchup.

*Ingredients in major ketchup brand: Tomato Concentrate from Red Ripe Tomatoes, Distilled Vinegar, High Fructose Corn Syrup, Corn Syrup, Salt, Spices, Onion Powder, Natural Flavoring.

**Ingredients in Sir Kensington's classic ketchup: Vine-ripened pear tomato puree, agave nectar, honey, brown sugar, apple cider vinegar, coriander, lime juice, allspice, whole onions, green onions, Dijon mustard, chipotle peppers, cilantro and Cayenne pepper.

Sir Kenstington's Gourmet Scooping Ketchup
www.sirkensingtons.com

Surprising Mexican delicacies...finally.

It makes sense that the fanciful and flavorful creations coming out of Alex Stupak's kitchen look like delicate, edible Mexican sculptures. With a pedigree as pastry chef at WD~50 and Alinea one would expect magic from Chef Stupak. And what he delivers is nothing short of surprising wonders...much needed wonders.

As a person who has never been excited by Mexican food, but having heard about the spectacular food coming out of Mexico City and Puebla, I often thought that New York was in need of some elevated Mexican cuisine. Enough of these generic taco/chip shops, these big box/over-sized margarita monoliths. There was a void in the market, and Alex Stupak saw that need and has now filled it.

Everything you order in the comfortable yet cool dinning room is brilliantly askew. Any expectations you have will be turned slightly to the slide and you'll be given some welcome surprises. Whether it's the Rooster’s Claw cocktail of Reposado tequila, mango and surprisingly spicy Habañero - woo, what a kick! The pillow like, lightly fried Gordita atop sweet and savory smoked plantains and chorizo; upon cutting into the flying saucer shaped Gordita one will be pleasantly surprised by the oozing egg yolk that perfectly merges the flavors and textures. The hearty and earthy Hen-of-the-Woods Mushrooms with Black Bean Vermicelli was savory and refreshing all at once. The sweet and perfectly cooked Maine Diver Scallops surrounded by small and savory Surryano Ham and delicate Chilaquiles (corn tortillas cut into small squares and lightly fried to a crisp).

We ended the evening with several desserts but the Arroz Con Leche; a cross between fried rice crispy treats and rice pudding covered in sweet cream cheese and lovely, light, sweet Guava was surprisingly amazing.

Finishing the evening and settling back satiated by this fine Mexican cuisine I was surprised. Surprised that it had taken until February of this year for a place like this exist in NYC. Surprised that I found a new favorite spot with Alex Stupak. And surprised that I could find Mexican food so plate-lickingly delicious.

Empellon Cocina
105 First Ave. (bet. 6th & 7th Sts.)

A light at the end of the tunnel

The food at Zenkichi takes a back seat to the actual seats within in this zen labyrinth hidden in plain site on North 6th Street in Williamsburg. And unless you've been to this windowless Japanese fun-house before it's easy to walk right by the unassuming door-front. But once you find your way in, you will be led through a venerable maze of dark wood, candle-lit shadows, oddly placed mirrors and bamboo curtains concealing private dinning booths and culinary secrets. Once seated in your cozy booth you can only begin to imagine what devious acts are taking place merely feet away from you. You struggle to make out the face of another patron amid the dark lighting and optical allusion created by the setting. You hear voices in the distance only to find no person connected to them. It's fun and romantic and unlike most restaurants in NY.

Ring the table top silent buzzer and a waitress appears and lifts the curtain to take your order. While the a la cart menu has many appealing dishes the $65, 8-course tasting is the way to go. Cover all your bases and give into the labyrinth. The menu changes seasonally but you can likely count on fresh sashimi, seasonable vegetables, a tempura dish and my favorite, the Zenkichi Salad (a simple dish of greens, homemade soft tofu, peanuts and a light sesame dressing). Other standouts off the tasting menu were the flaky and sweet Miso Cod and the Yellowtail Donburi (delicious tuna over perfectly seasoned rice). Several choices for desserts which the table should share and I recommend a scoop of Walnut Chocolate Pudding goes really well with a sliver of Black Sesame Mouse all cut by the Milk Tofu. A few bottles of sake and you may not want to (or be able to) find your way out of the maze. And while I'm not running back so quickly for the food, I found my evening within this Japanese labyrinth to be a very Zen one.

Zenkichi
77 North 6th Street, Williamsburg, Bkyln

The Gift of Great Gelato

Europe has sent New Yorkers the gift of Amorino Gelato. A delicious treat unlike most things our Americanized palates have experienced, this wonderful dessert and the shop that purveys it have a goal to create a high quality European-type pleasure. Their objective is to make the superb product without artificial ingredients and in a time where we struggle to find transparency within the food industry it is a pleasure to indulge in a natural and delicious treat.

Get on line in this cozy shop on University and you're suddenly in Paris. Watch the artisan craftsman create your cone as it literally sprouts petals and becomes a flower before your eyes. You have unlimited flavor combinations to choose from but I recommend against your instincts to try them all at once (for fear you appear as an unfettered child in a literal candy shop). Instead choose your complimentary flavors carefully and create an elevated dessert experience. Why not try a mature and rich combination of Stracciatella, Dark Chocolate and Coffee? Or perhaps sweet Strawberry and Passion Fruit with a dollop of lemon will tickle your taste-buds? With endless combinations you would be hard pressed to make a bad decisions. And with such a plethora of ways to enjoy this wholesome Gelato you can treat yourself to this gift again and again.

Amorino
60 University Place

The Crossroads of Gwynnett St.

Call it good timing or right place at the right time or even fate but no matter what you call it something was drawing us towards Gwynnett St. last night. A little over a month ago that something compelled me to make a reservation on a random Thursday at a random new Brooklyn restaurant. I don't recall what sparked my interest but I knew I should make that reservation. Fast forward to 3 days before our approaching reservation and Pete Wells assigns it two stars in The Times and the buzz surrounding this new establishment reached a fever pitch. The evening of our dinner arrived and not moments after we are seated in the darkened brick and wood room do I see one of the founders of Immaculate Infatuation (an established site that I admire) is seated not 6 feet away from me, yet another sign of good timing!

Gwynnett St. itself represents an intangible culinary crossroad, paying homage to the once real street which connected different Brooklyn neighborhoods, now Gwynnett St. has brought together some great culinary minds. The present day crossroads that brought the team together was Esca and WD-50, the temple to modern cuisine. And while there are echos of modern technique in Gwynnett St.'s cuisine it is more reminiscent of traditional and comfort food with contemporary influences. The technique isn't what I first noticed upon sampling the dishes but instead the rich and dense flavors nestled within artful presentations. And while not all the flavors fell within my palate I must admit they were very well conceived and well executed.

Among the noteworthy dishes; the surprisingly hearty Bok Choy with cauliflower, grapefruit and whipped feta was plate-lickingly good; the slow poached egg "soup" with pork and peas which I found slightly under-conceived but basically delicious; the sunflower seed tofu with artichokes reminded me of a rich halavah and unfortunately I felt some of the flavors were lost; I particularly enjoyed the scallops with delicate black trumpet mushroom, celery root and meyer lemon however something in this dish screamed fois gras to me and it weighed the dish down a bit. The cashew, apricot meringue was an effervescent and refreshing way to end the meal. I found the staff eager and very friendly despite working to overcome some new "it" restaurant kinks. Overall I think our experience was excellent but warrants a repeat visit to sample some other offerings.

My instincts which pulled us toward Gwynnett St. last night were correct. Any place where great culinary minds congregate is a place I want to be. From the ambiance, food, staff and clientele, it is clear that a lot of good paths are crossing at Gwynnett St.

Gwynnett St.
312 Graham Avenue btw Devoe and Ainslie

Uruguayan Utopia

I can't say what was more pleasantly distracting; the sweet smell of salt water, the dolphins breaching in the near distance or the warm sun streaming through the straw roof as we sipped ice-cold beer. Whatever contributed, our New York worries ceased to exist and nothing mattered as we soaked in the scenery in Cabo Palonia, Uruguay. We found ourselves within this beach oasis after several hours of driving through the Uruguayan countryside, patiently waiting for a transfer we thought might never come and then taking an 8 kilometer open truck ride over sand dunes and through the wilderness. But a farther trek would have been worthwhile to sit, even for a moment, within this paradisaical enclave.

A home to hippies and a backpackers delight, this remote village is populated by friendly recluses, clapboard houses and homespun businesses. Here, electricity and plumbing are scarce but it's made up for in natural beauty and tranquility. We meditated in the surroundings, drank in the experience and enjoyed the best beer ever at the local inn and bar, La Perla del Cabo. And while we were only there for a short time, one of the locals explained that a short time in Cabo Palonia was all it took to be changed forever.

Our road trip back to Punta del Este led us to the small town of Manantiales which felt like a cross between St. Barths, the Hamptons and the middle of no-where. I gather it's quite a scene "in season" but since we found it during "slightly off season" it was spectacular. We dined at the Manantiales Fish Market and after a day of driving and South American sun it could not have been more satisfying. Fresh sashimi and ceviche, luscious gazpacho, moist grilled Brotola fish and the house specialty of lomo (sirloin) grilled sandwich were gobbled up with many oohs and ahhs. Several glasses of wine and a few second orders and we were a truly happy bunch.

I think it was the the altitude, the sea air and the remote setting that helped us find ourselves while we sat sipping wine and taking in the crisp night air. My emotions were heightened as we reminisced about our Cabo Palonia adventure and feasted on local Manantiales' delicacies, and I knew that in that moment, Uruguay was my own personal utopia.