The Artistry of Corton

It's been almost two weeks since we dined at Corton and I think it's taken me this long to fully process the meal we ate.  Or should I say it's taken me this long to digest the considered, complex and overwhelmingly beautiful fare we experienced.  

I've wanted to dine at Corton ever since I saw A Matter of Taste, the documentary that follows the wandering, madcap wunderkind Chef Paul Liebrandt on his journey to craft a curated culinary sanctuary.  The film follows Liebrandt for over ten years.  Ten years!  And it begins with him at a semi-humble point as the chef at a lackluster and stifling tavern, follows him deep, down into trying times while he was between jobs until it ultimately delivers you to his present triumph at Michelin-starred Corton.  The film really brings you on his journey and leaves you speechless, inspired and ultimately redeemed by his earned successes.  I highly recommend the film.  I less emphatically but still strongly recommend an evening at Corton -- and not because it doesn't live up to the hype but because the cost and the preciousness of the evening should be reserved for a time in one's life when the experience is really earned.  This is not your average Saturday evening celebratory dinner.

Walk into Corton and the first thing you notice is the static hum of silence.  Followed by the stark whiteness and bright lights.  You're not sitting in a restaurant with reveling diners.  You're perched atop a delicate pew in the church of culinary precision.  Every detail in the place from the staff's subdued demeanor, to the shoulder height windows peering into the pristine kitchen, to the neutral color surroundings is crafted so the food is the focus.  Akin to being in the presence of the Mona Lisa, when the room surrounding her seems to dissolve into your periphery, the setting seems to fade as the food is placed at arms length.  


It's hard for me to recap individual courses or bites.  Their complexities do not lend themselves to recounting.  I do recall the seven masterpieces, each plate painted as wildly as a Miró canvas yet designed as deliberately as a Gaudí building.  The courses were punctuated and accented by mid-course bites of minute edible sculptures.  It was as if we were ingesting works of art - full of flavor and complexity and equally pleasing to devour with our eyes.    

Having finally dined at Corton and given myself ample time to process the experience I can say that Paul Liebrandt's work does belong in the pantheon of the painting and architecture greats.  Because just like those visionaries, his path to Corton is one of a storied odyssey and the result is pure artistry. 

Corton
239 West Broadway

Anything but generic at Acme

Ever since El Bulli closed and Noma took its position as the number 1 restaurant in the world, New Yorkers have been clamoring for a seat at one of the New Nordic Noma-like establishments that have recently opened in NY. And I was no exception. So when we finally got ourselves a 6:45 table at the forager hotspot, Acme, I jumped. After all, when one of the founding members of a discipline opens an outpost in your neighborhood, you get on line.

Walking up to Acme, which inhabits the former southern restaurant of the same name and facade, I realized that I didn't quite know what to expect.  As a young foodie I repeatedly and unsuccessfully tried to get a coveted seat at El Bulli for years but Noma has remained a bit of an enigma to me.  And while I did try to reach out to a friend from my semester abroad who currently is a line cook at Noma, my interests remained at arms length from the Copenhagen establishment.  New Nordic or forager cuisine is in contrast to the Modern gastronomy of El Bulli, WD~50 and others because it is a return to basics.  Instead of using newfangled scientific breakthroughs to turn an ingredient into a dry-iced, liquified. reconstituted, aerated version of its former self New Nordic cuisine is a return to simple, local and often raw foods.

And even with this knowledge I still wasn't sure what Chef Mads Refslund's creations would be.  But I soon learned that this obsession with local, seasonal ingredients foraged from the landscape around us would make for elegantly simple preparations of amazingly fresh food.  By returning to traditional techniques like drying, smoking, pickling and curing and applying them to ingredients so fresh that eating them raw is a pleasure in and of itself, Chef Refslund is reminding us that there is beauty in what's found around us.

We began the evening with Sweet Shrimp and raw Bison atop butter lettuce and salty green almonds.  The dish was salty but not overwhelmingly so, and the raw shrimp and bison coupled with the fresh crisp lettuce was delightfully light and fresh. The Farmer's Egg came as a frothy mix of cauliflower and aged Parmesan; each heavenly spoonful was airy and hearty at the same time.  The slices of decadently delicious Country Toast covered in sweet caramelized onions, brie and honey were here one minute and gone the next.

With such delicious food, arranged under the simply alluring categories such as Raw, Cooked, Soil and Sea/Land, I can see why diners are desperate to get a seat (and return for seconds).  We ended the meal with the lace like chocolate crisps which protruded from ganache all accompanied by coffee ice cream.  And like the rest of the meal, I had no idea what to expect from dessert but it delivered a perfect ending to a meal that was anything but ordinary.

Acme
9 Great Jones Street
NYC

Thrilling times at Yopparai

Last night one of the most thrilling things happened to me, and it wasn't just the delectable Sea Eel and fluffed egg casserole with Burdock root.  Last night while dining at the three month old Yopparai Sake Bar & Restaurant a photographer from the New York Times was there capturing the sights, sounds and people(!) indulging at this soon to be hot spot.  And the fact that the dinning room is about as wide as a king size bed means that the photog got really close to the action (and me!).   

Up a flight of stairs into a LES apartment lies Yopparai.  In the former Sushi UO space this hidden Izayaka is serving drinks and hearty snacks.  Literally translated yopparai means drunkard and with a bar that runs the length of the entire room it's plain to see where the focus lies.  The cozy setting and friendly staff encourage patrons to settle in and enjoy delicious food paired with lots and lots of sake.  And after a few hours of drinking and dining we were jovially chatting up the owner and chef; they were so hospitable that upon hearing about our upcoming trip to Japan the chef quickly gave me the business card (in Japanese with hand written English translation) for his father's restaurant in Tokyo.

Often at Izayakas I feel that each dish is like its own little gift and that every plate demands attention to its own unique details.  The Uni Sashimi came four pieces to an order and was accompanied by a jewelry box filled with fresh nori (seaweed) allowing each bite to be delicately crafted at your seat.  The mixed Japanese mushrooms with (fermented) sake lees, miso, and butter were tangy and refined.  The grilled clams came with their own pyrotechnical accompaniment; I wasn't sure if we'd eat them or just get lost staring at the mini flame. 

The extensive menu lends itself to repeat visits and I'd recommend you hurry up and get there...because once the Times publishes whatever photographs were being taken, it may be even harder to get a seat at this thrilling bar & restaurant.


Yopparai
151 Rivington St. btw Suffolk & Clinton

Post script:  I see the Times and I weren't the only bigwigs at Yopparai last night!

Smooth as Silk

I haven't had many facials in my life. And up until the most recent one I wouldn't say I exactly enjoyed them either.  I remember my first facial felt like something out of a spooky Stepford wife science experiment complete with warm gases, florescent lights and poking.  The next felt like I had been snuck under Iron Curtain Russia where my esthetician gained some sick pleasure from keeping me guessing and alert.  But recently I was treated to the finest, most relaxing facial at Silk Day Spa.

Silk is the subterranean and exclusive spa hidden around the corner on 13th & 6th Avenue. After a decent massage I was drowsily led deeper into their underground utopia and into a cozy and warm facial room. There I met my soft-handed and low-voiced facialist, Soyoung. We began the 60 minute session and I expected a semi-rude awakening but au contraire. As soon as I laid back I was ensconced in warm blankets and my face felt bathed in silk. No harsh pinches, no extended periods of waiting for some cream to take effect or for my skin to reach some optimal temperature. Start to finish Soyoung treated my skin like a rare Michelangelo sculpture being gingerly restored to its original glory.

I suppose it would be worth noting that the services at Silk are not cheap. The facials range from $130-$250 a session. But I say ditch the seasonal facial you're getting and opt for a better one less often. I know that's what I'll be doing at Silk.

Silk Day Spa

47 West 13th Street

Love for Locanda Verde...just don't call it brunch.

I'm not a fan of brunch. In fact, I just don't understand the appeal of the whole thing. Wake up early, presumably hung over, go battle with other equally bleary eyed and hungry crankies only to wait an hour for a table that was supposed to be ready 20 minutes ago, and once seated sip watered down, high calorie cocktails while the chef grits his teeth because he presumably had to get up even earlier and probably even more hung over. Whoa. I just worked myself up quite a bit. And over what? A meal that is trying to find it's place between breakfast and lunch. I'm sorry. Brunch can be great...

And when I do find my self up-and-at-em before noon on a Sunday the first place I want to find myself is Locanda Verde. Fact is I'd be happy to find myself there for any meal but they seem to be doing something extra special for 'brunch' and who am I to argue with excellence.

I recommend beginning with an order of the Sheep’s Milk Ricotta for the table; the creamy and light cheese is sweetly complimented by truffle honey and rosemary atop sweet and crunchy burnt orange toast. Yum. For the brunch-inclined the roasted Zucchini Frittata with tomato, goat cheese and basil is the best version of a brunch frittata I've had. The light and airy lemon Ricotta Pancakes with

blueberries and meyer lemon curd are fluffy and delicately sweet. For the ones amongst us who really don't like brunch any of the more traditional menu items like Steak Tartare with hazelnuts, truffles and crispy guanciale or one of the sophisticated and hearty pastas or sandwiches should do the trick.

The vibe at LV feels like rustic country house meets Tribecca artist loft. The tall windows, high ceilings and immaculate open kitchen invites you in, wakes you up and welcomes you to the day. The friendly staff, variety of pastries and milk types (I always appreciate a restaurant that caters to the skim, soy, and other type of milk drinkers) and the excellent food could turn even the staunchest anti-bruncher among us into a believer. And dare I say, it may have gotten to me. Because after a few brunches at Locanda Verde, I think I'll be getting up bright eyed to be there at noon next week.

Locanda Verde
377 Greenwich St
(corner of N.Moore and Greenwich)

Surprising Mexican delicacies...finally.

It makes sense that the fanciful and flavorful creations coming out of Alex Stupak's kitchen look like delicate, edible Mexican sculptures. With a pedigree as pastry chef at WD~50 and Alinea one would expect magic from Chef Stupak. And what he delivers is nothing short of surprising wonders...much needed wonders.

As a person who has never been excited by Mexican food, but having heard about the spectacular food coming out of Mexico City and Puebla, I often thought that New York was in need of some elevated Mexican cuisine. Enough of these generic taco/chip shops, these big box/over-sized margarita monoliths. There was a void in the market, and Alex Stupak saw that need and has now filled it.

Everything you order in the comfortable yet cool dinning room is brilliantly askew. Any expectations you have will be turned slightly to the slide and you'll be given some welcome surprises. Whether it's the Rooster’s Claw cocktail of Reposado tequila, mango and surprisingly spicy Habañero - woo, what a kick! The pillow like, lightly fried Gordita atop sweet and savory smoked plantains and chorizo; upon cutting into the flying saucer shaped Gordita one will be pleasantly surprised by the oozing egg yolk that perfectly merges the flavors and textures. The hearty and earthy Hen-of-the-Woods Mushrooms with Black Bean Vermicelli was savory and refreshing all at once. The sweet and perfectly cooked Maine Diver Scallops surrounded by small and savory Surryano Ham and delicate Chilaquiles (corn tortillas cut into small squares and lightly fried to a crisp).

We ended the evening with several desserts but the Arroz Con Leche; a cross between fried rice crispy treats and rice pudding covered in sweet cream cheese and lovely, light, sweet Guava was surprisingly amazing.

Finishing the evening and settling back satiated by this fine Mexican cuisine I was surprised. Surprised that it had taken until February of this year for a place like this exist in NYC. Surprised that I found a new favorite spot with Alex Stupak. And surprised that I could find Mexican food so plate-lickingly delicious.

Empellon Cocina
105 First Ave. (bet. 6th & 7th Sts.)

The Gift of Great Gelato

Europe has sent New Yorkers the gift of Amorino Gelato. A delicious treat unlike most things our Americanized palates have experienced, this wonderful dessert and the shop that purveys it have a goal to create a high quality European-type pleasure. Their objective is to make the superb product without artificial ingredients and in a time where we struggle to find transparency within the food industry it is a pleasure to indulge in a natural and delicious treat.

Get on line in this cozy shop on University and you're suddenly in Paris. Watch the artisan craftsman create your cone as it literally sprouts petals and becomes a flower before your eyes. You have unlimited flavor combinations to choose from but I recommend against your instincts to try them all at once (for fear you appear as an unfettered child in a literal candy shop). Instead choose your complimentary flavors carefully and create an elevated dessert experience. Why not try a mature and rich combination of Stracciatella, Dark Chocolate and Coffee? Or perhaps sweet Strawberry and Passion Fruit with a dollop of lemon will tickle your taste-buds? With endless combinations you would be hard pressed to make a bad decisions. And with such a plethora of ways to enjoy this wholesome Gelato you can treat yourself to this gift again and again.

Amorino
60 University Place

Down and dirty at Dirt Candy

Chef Amanda Cohen isn't afraid to get dirty. An alumna of Pure Food & Wine and Heirloom among others, she has made it her personal mission to throw dirt at the carnivore-dominated establishment and prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that eating vegetarian (or vegan) can be as satisfying, filling, and rich of an experience as eating even the best meat. She doesn't care about your health, she doesn't care about your dogmatic food convictions, she cares that her vegetarian fare is damn good. And it is.

Down a few steps in a basement storefront on East 9th Street lies Dirt Candy. Meat eaters and vegetarians alike are invited to experience vegetables in a different light (literally the space glows with an orange hue). But order literally anything off the menu and it too will arrive with a slight halo; each dish is a perfect little piece of art. And while you're not always 100% sure what you're eating when it arrives, you can be sure it'll be meat-free and delicious.

Each dish we ordered had one focus ingredient that played the star of that show and was surrounded by supporting veggies which worked to elevate and compliment the primary flavor. We started our herbivore adventure with pillow-like Jalapeno Hush Puppies with maple butter. Each bite burst with a small kick from the jalapeno and was perfectly complimented by the sweet maple confection. We sampled the Yellow Pepper soup with smoky pepper mouse and jalapeno chips. We indulged in the Carrot barbecue steamed buns balanced by the crunchy and crisp cucumber and sesame-carrot halvah. We continued with an order of Chard Gnocchi surrounded by pungent goat cheese and topped with sweet fig jam, many flavors and textures that all worked to create an incredible bite. Then onto the coconut poached tofu with spicy guacamole, fancifully fried pickles and cucumber salsa - this dish was very good however the main ingredient (Cucumber) felt and tasted like more of a secondary player than the focus. We capped it all off with the the sweet pea, mint and chocolate Ice Cream bar and bid adieu to our vegetarian adventure.

Overall, our evening down in the dirt was excellent. And I would proudly bring even the staunchest meat eaters to Dirt Candy in hopes that a taste of Chef Cohen's treats would broaden their views of what a truly satisfying dinner can be. Meat or no meat, everyone can enjoy getting a little dirty at Dirt Candy.

Dirt Candy
430 East 9th Street

Dessert for Dinner

In honor of Pi Day (3.14.12) we decided that the scientific community would want us to have dessert for dinner. Please don't question my logic here. It's an important day honoring an immeasurable mathematical symbol and an evening to eat dessert.

We started our dessert depravity at Dessert Club, ChikaLicious on East 10th street. We chose the blackberry yogurt souffle as our palate amuse. It was light, eggy and sweet with subtle yogurt flavor punctuated by the tart and sweet blackberry. Yum. Then onto the decidedly adult, rich, deep, dark chocolate lava cake perfectly cut by a cold scoop of vanilla bean ice cream. Amazing.

We moved our decadent party down the street to Spot Dessert Bar, a uniquely Asian dessert Mecca. We opted to skip the multi-course dessert omakasa because we thought our stomachs couldn't handle so much sweetness, however, from the looks and aromas coming from the kitchen, we might not make that same mistake next time. What we ultimately landed on was a final bite of the airy, light and delicately Soft Cheesecake with tart passion-fruit foam, blueberry compote, citrus segments and walnut granola. It was light and luscious and a perfect flavor to leave lingering on our tongues. We sipped our teas - green and black rose - and then giggled our entire walk home, our heads filled to the brim with sweet sugar energy. We arrived home in time for a night cap and then off to bed to dream about the decadent candy land adventure we had embarked on in honor of Pi Day. We'll surely look forward to the next opportunity to have dessert for dinner - March 14, 2013 can't come soon enough.

Dessert Club, ChikaLicious
203 East 10th Street btw 1st & 2nd Ave

Spot Dessert Bar
13 St. Marks Place btw 2nd & 3rd Ave

My weekend with Michael White.

I recently had the pleasure of spending an extended weekend with Michael White. Figuratively. But our dalliance did involve not only one, not two, but three delectable meals and it brought me to different parts of the tri-state to enjoy different types of delicacies. Marea and Osteria Morini are Chef White's notable eateries. The former being the seafood forward temple to high end Italian cuisine. The latter is the well-executed home to traditional Northern Italian fare. I thoroughly enjoyed all of the experiences and was pleasantly surprised by how such different establishments could come from the mind and hands of one man...Chef Michael White.

Spaghetti crab, santa barbara sea urchin, basil
(Photo by Ted Axelrod)

Marea was an absolutely lovely uptown dining evening, particularly enjoyable for a seafood lover like myself. Upon first review, the menu was a little overwhelming, but I soon learned that it's hard to order wrong here. One of the reasons I was excited for Marea was because it was a stop on my quest to taste all the best Uni Pastas in NY and White’s version didn't disappoint (actually, it's hard to disappoint with fresh pasta, tomatoes and uni). The other sign of a great dining experience is when the dish on the table that you're least excited about ends up being one of the best. The safe sounding Striped Bass with citrus and candied pistachios was unexpectedly amazing and one of the moistest fish I've ever had.

Osteria Morini is the casual and trendy Soho trattoria as well as the recently opened NJ eatery. The setting at the two Morinis is a little noisier, the crowd is a little rowdier and the food was a little more down to earth. And while the two vibes are slightly different - Soho attracting a hip downtown clientele while the NJ spot is inviting for sophisticated suburban families - I found the food lived up to the hype at both. The menus are also slightly tailored to their audiences. In place of the fantastic antipasti skewers of lightly fried squid with lemon and the tender duck hearts with cherries in Soho, the NJ menu offers artisanal pizzas. But the pastas at both Morinis were delectable and really stole the show. The hearty tagliatelle with bolognese ragu, the delicate stacci pasta rags with wild mushrooms and the airy gnocchi in pomodoro sauce were delightful. All were delicate and flavorful and I was happy to stick a fork in each.

Clearly Michael White is doing something right in these kitchens. It's intriguing to see a great chef so effortlessly move between such distinct styles and settings and I know I'll always reminisce fondly of my weekend with Michael White. In fact I've already made plans for several repeat visits.

Marea

240 Central Park South

Osteria Morini

218 Lafayette Street

Osteria Morini
107 Morristown Road, Bernardsville, NJ

A wedding gift from James Beard

For people like my hubby and me for whom dining is an elevated art form nearing an ethereal experience, a gift to the renowned James Beard Foundation and a gift certificate to dine there was perfection personified. To put it mildly. The second I walked into the old yet hallowed building I felt at home. Why hadn't I stumbled in before or signed up for one of their illustrious dinners? Oh yea, they come with a hefty price tag that most mere mortals reserve for special occasions and birthdays. But there we were on a random Monday rubbing elbows with the culinary elite and we fit right in. Comparing meals we had eaten in Spain. Talking about planned future meals in far-flung corners of the earth or hidden spots down the street. We held our own. And bite after bite offered from our aspirational chef Shuji Hiyakawa of Komé & Ooka Restaurants in Pennsylvania I began to truly understand the mission of James Beard which is to celebrate, nurture, and preserve America’s diverse culinary heritage and future. The Foundation values artists who are creating work not just in New York and other major cities but all over -- bringing elevated food to the masses.

We had signed up for the meal entitled Fine Japanese Cuisine and if you regularly read this blog you'll understand why. The food was fantastic and the amazing wine pairings helped to soften my previous belief that red wine is best (these whites were incredible!). We began with a bevy of hors d'oeuvres including sushi spheres, pork belly pot-stickers with a sweet BBQ sauce and Foie Gras dumplings to name a few. Then onto our memorable five-course meal in which every bite stood out. I was awed by the Cauliflower and Uni Cappuccino - an airy amuse to begin the evening. The Sous-vide Wild Salmon with baby root vegetables, ginger balsamic and lavender foam was perfectly cooked and divine. And we punctuated the meal with a White Chocolate-Raspberry Mouse with Chocolate crumble thank you very much.

For now, we'll rejoice in our membership and no doubt splurge on a few more dinners. But much like Cinderella at the stroke of midnight, in a year's time we'll be reduced to peering into the windows of greatness. Unless of course we or our generous benefactors pony up for year two.

James Beard Foundation
167 West 12th Street

Almost worth the wait...

Check back in two months because by that time The Toucan and The Lion will have worked out the kinks in the service and will have perfected the food and consistency. But tonight, after only 2 months of being full speed, they weren't quite there. That's not to say that we didn't have a devilishly fun night, leisurely dining, drinking and being merry at this soon-to-be neighborhood hot spot. And despite some bumps in the freshly paved road, I will be eager to try again and recommend this spot to friends. No matter that upon arrival we were quoted a 20 minute wait but had to wait a full hour before we were actually seated at our drafty table near the window. What quelled our nerves was the fact that waiting in the bar was lovely, and the host and staff went above and beyond caring for and being solicitous of their patrons.

Everything on the menu appealed to our table but not everything that arrived was what we had hoped it would be. Perhaps it was our high standards that dimmed the cuisine because the Sticky Pear & Arugula salad with spiced pecans and pork crackling, as well as the Chili Tamarind King Prawns with feta and thyme were a degree short of perfection. But the Short Rib Tacos with dried curry, queso and pickled shallots in addition to the decadently charred Brussels with bacon and lemongrass, and the Risotto with squash, goat cheese and pumpkin seeds were finger-lickingly divine. Even though our table was slightly confused as to the appropriate amount and combination of shares vs. mains vs. sides that we should order, in the end we were all happy to stick a fork in a few extra Indian, Thai, Filipino influenced plates.

Despite and because of it all, I wholeheartedly believe that one day very soon all the issues that plague this (and any new) restaurant will be worked out and The Toucan and the Lion will live up to the hype and be more than worth the wait. Until then, I'll be waiting...

The Toucan and The Lion

342 East 6th Street

Lombardi's and Totonno's and Di Fara...oh my

When hubby and I first met Scott Wiener of Scott's Pizza Tour we were stuck on a Brooklyn bound A train on our way to Brooklyn Fare. I was anxiously awaiting the greatest meal that was yet to come but we immediately noticed Scott who was wearing a pizza championship t-shirt, reading an 1000 page history of Italian cuisine and had a red pizza delivery bag rigged into a backpack. Suffice to say, we decided to engage Scott. "You must love pizza," hubby began, more of a statement than a question posed to a stranger on the subway. We didn't know the half of it. Scott has been treating tourists, pizza lovers and culinarily adventurous New Yorkers to an education about the art of pizza in all its forms for several years. And Scott's Pizza Tour is not only a fun activity for a hungry group of friends, it's also clearly a labor of love for its proprietor.

It took us several months but we finally signed up to join our friend Scott for one of his famous half day Sunday tours. Little did we know what a special day we were in for. Scott is the foremost expert of all things pizza; so ingratiated to the staffs who run these NY establishments that he's practically family and he's definitely famous among them. Afterall he is curating a history and celebrating their Italian food heritage. In fact, he's so welcomed into the inner sanctums of their coal, wood & brick ovens that when Lombardi's on Spring Street had to remove the floor tiles of their secret dinning room above the coal oven for maintenance, they called Scott so he could crawl in and take a look.

So it was fitting that we began our expedition at Lombardi's by touring the kitchen and tasting the first pie out of the oven. While Lombardi's famous pizza and restaurant was an excellent start, it would later pale in comparison to what was to come that afternoon. After a slice we hopped on our mini yellow school bus and we were off to Coney Island for another NY legend: Totonno's, where Scott and our group were invited to chat with the pie maker as he lovingly crafted our half margarita, half white pie -- the former consisting of crushed tomatoes, mozzarella, basil and olive oil; the later comprised of mozzarella, fresh garlic and olive oil. Unbelievable. Cheesier than Lombardi's with slightly lighter crust; we ate and listened to Scott explain how the gas in the dough is distributed as it's kneaded which makes those crunchy yummy charred bubbles. We then got our own personal Bill Nye the Science Guy type explanation of why New York City water, with its low chlorine and PH levels, contributes to the clean fresh flavor and consistency of the dough which cannot be replicated outside the city.

After an exceptional slice or two at Totonno's we were back on the bus and towards the main event...Di Fara Pizza in Midwood. A rare treat for the tour, Scott has asked me to note the extenuating circumstances of our tour which allowed the group to go to the mythical Di Fara's; the stars were aligned, the sun was shining, the gods were smiling and we were an unusually small group. And thus Di Fara was fated to be. We arrived. We watched as the one, the only, the 75 year old Dom DeMarco gingerly kneaded the pie, placed hand crushed whole plump ripe tomatoes, heaped on two types of decadent cheese, poured copious amounts of Vanita Olive Oil, baked until bubbling and then cut fresh bright Israeli basil on top. This was. The. Best. Pizza. Ever. We simply had to have two slices of the nutty, buttery delicacy.

There were a few other stops and bites to follow but throughout them all we were treated to Scott's mini dissertations about any and all subjects you could possibly imagine related to pizza. And I got the impression that the knowledge Scott was imparting as we asked question after question was just the tip of the iceberg of what he knows. The man could and should teach a PhD course at Harvard on the nuances, history and love of this technique that came over from Naples and has branched into so many facets of our collective New York and American culture. I definitely learned something and found a new love for the humble slice. Thanks Scott!

Scott's Pizza Tour

A window closes and a door opens.

I was just this week lamenting the fact that Holy Basil, one of our favorite neighborhood Thai spots, good for dine in or delivery, suddenly closed. But on the heels of one departure, a new and improved Thai option has emerged mere blocks away.

Ngam is creating self-described "modern interpretations of classic Thai comfort food" and to me it's just that. Nothing feels more comforting than a heaping bowl of fresh Pad Thai or more warming than a curry with rice, and the entrees at Ngam are among the best I've had. The modern twist offers a refreshing take on dishes that to many people have become common or generic. It takes a lot for a Thai restaurant to distinguish itself and recently there have been several glowing beacons standing out among the pack (Ngam being one but also check out Kin Shop and Lotus NY, incidentally check back soon for posts about those as well).

Speaking of the dishes that make Ngam such a breath of fresh air, the Winter Squash Curry with red “Kang Dang” curry paste, basil, sweet squash and soft tofu was truly memorable. The familiar Pad Thai came will a subtle yet noticeable spice that left me wanting more bite after bite. And the sides are original yet current enough to include “Prik Khing” Brussel Sprouts and Bacon, yum!

I suppose the takeaway from my recent meals at Ngam reminds me of the Marylin Monroe quote (she no doubt intended it for men but I'm applying it to restaurants); sometimes good things fall apart to make room for better things to fall together. And to that end I'll say; sorry to see you go, Holy Basil but thanks for falling together Ngam!



Ngam

99 Third Avenue @ 12th Street

Humming the Edi & the Wolf tune

A culinary fun-house. A playground of Austrian delights. An unexpected gem on the East side of Avenue C. Everything we ordered while seated in the terrarium-like back room at Edi & the Wolf [named after the dynamic duo behind this establishment (and the upscale uptown Seäsonal Restaurant)] was stand up-fall down delicious.

The Flatbread with pungent blue ricotta, pears, and creme fraiche. The perfectly al-dente little spätzle with wild mushrooms and brussel sprouts. The schnitzel with potato, cucumber and lingonberry jam. The selection of delectably decadent cheeses (the Humboltfog among my favorites).

After dining in the culinary fantasy world that is Edi & the Wolf one might find themselves leaving in such a giddily satiated mood that they might be compelled to skip part of the way home humming "Edi & the Wolf" to the tune of Benny and the Jets. I don't know if that's just me or if it was the Austrian delicacies that I seldom indulge in and the decor that sparked such wonderment, either way I was so tickled by the experience that it did add a little sparkle to my step. And if you're open to the tune you'll leave humming too.

Edi & the Wolf
102 Avenue C at 7th Street

Far away around the corner

Isn't it refreshing when you discover something that's been sitting under your nose the entire time? Set aside the obliviousness you feel due to your aforementioned oversight and revel in the knowledge that you're bound to enjoy countless future experiences now that you've 'uncovered' this 'new' gem.

Nestled within the Japanese food enclave on East 9th Street lies Yakiniku West; step inside and you will feel whisked far far away. First and foremost, you're asked politely to leave your shoes in the cubbies by the door (or carry with you in a bag if you're skittish). Next you are led and literally lowered to your table which is recessed in the floor. Once seated inside the cozy booths with your shoeless feet dangling, the staff lights up the table grill and you're ready to cook delicious meats and veggies at this traditional Rural Japanese Steakhouse.

And while there are many Yakiniku type restaurants in the city (especially in Koreatown on 32nd Street) I found the one in our hood especially delicious and cozy. Beyond their selection of tasty grilled meats (the Kobe beef was particularly tender and juicy) and the fresh veggies (which I love to char to flavorful perfection and dip in the various sauces), Yakiniku West also serves amazingly fresh sushi to round out your meal. We absolutely loved the Toro and Salmon Belly rolls. And as we sat there sipping our Sake and nibbling on our grilled delectables I vowed never again to disregard the familiar door-fronts that we frequently walk past; afterall you never know when you'll discover the next neighborhood spot missing from your rotation, no matter how far away it seems.

Yakiniku West
218 East 9th Street

Fun food at L'Artusi

Who doesn't love tapas? They are so much fun. Lots of little tastes. Sharing among friends. Never having to decide between 2 dishes with equal appeal. You can have them all!

In my opinion, L'Artusi has perfected the art of Tapas-style eating but instead of the traditional Spanish cuisine they are doing it with rustic, flavorful, excellent Italian food. What fun! Even the menu, which is divided into Crudo, Verdura, Pasta, Pesce and Carne, is entertaining to play with and devise a unique dining combination. And depending how many people you go with (or how hungry you are) you can sample many of the items due to their modest portions.

I think selecting 2 or 3 items from each section should satisfy a hungry table of 4 and still leave room for you to sample one of the delicious desserts (the Olive Oil Cake is a must!). Also, with such a varied menu you're sure to satisfy the seafood-ceviche lover, the hard-core pasta person and the rustic meat-eater all at once. And if you're like me and fall into all the food-loving categories, you no longer have to make the tough call between the flaky Branzino with roasted lemon, olives and honey or the Cappellacci pasta with squash, sage brown butter and pecorino or the Roasted Quail with brussels sprouts, sausage and chestnuts--you can stick a fork in all of them! And what a fun fork it will be!

L'Artusi
228 West 10th Street @ Bleeker