The writing on the wall...

I'm sitting here at Graffiti on East 10th Street rudely typing away while my husband stares aimlessly at our communal table dining companions. To the unsuspecting patron across the table I must look very important because I'm clearly responding to a work email but really I'm too excited to wait to say just how good Graffiti really is.

I recently heard that the television writers for one of my childhood favorites (Pete & Pete) put parameters on their writing that everything should be "funny, sad, strange, beautiful" and for some reason that struck me. I think that's a perfect lens to look at life. So it's rather strange and beautiful that we ended up dining at Graffiti tonight. The food at Graffiti feels vaguely Spanish and Indian but that fusion works and the results are definitely beautiful. There are elements of Modern Spanish cuisine in the combinations of ingredients and presentation. And there are Indian influences in the spices that linger on your tongue and the smells that waft over you while you dine. It's a lovely sensory experience.

We started with the Pickled Ginger Scallops over a candied red chili glaze--the scallops were so sweet and delicate but balanced by the flash of heat from the chilies--it was subtle and powerful at the same time. Next the Pork Dumplings with a sweet grapefruit confit covered with strangely, crispy chickpea flakes--the different textures and combination of the hearty pork and airy dumplings created a truly enjoyable bite. To be honest the pork buns didn't wow me but the Skate with mint yogurt sauce more than made up for them. Finally, on to dessert which was amazing. Hazelnut chocolate caviar cupcake with chocolate chip ice cream. Doesn't that just sound delicious? I'll say it again; hazelnut chocolate caviar cupcake with chocolate chip ice cream. Yum. This lightly sweet hazelnut cake covered with whimsical crispy chocolate caviar spheres accompanied by chocolate chip ice cream truly finished the evening right. The whole experience fit my new mold of funny, strange, beautiful and the sad part is that it had to end.

Graffiti
224 East 10th Street btw 1/2 Ave

People will not stop talking about Torrisi Italian Specialties.

The Torrisi guys have saved traditional locally-sourced rustic Italian cuisine! The Torrisi guys have revamped the San Genarro festival and made Mulberry Street hipster-foodie approved! The Torrisi guys have revolutionized mozzarella by putting it on a stick! There has been so much non-stop buzz around these guys and their Italian food cottage industry that I decided it was high time to check out all the buzz for myself. And I'll admit it, I arrived a little skeptical -- after all these guys have more hype surrounding them than that time Angelina & Brad walked through that airport.

My skepticism was magnified when I found out that in order to dine at Torrisi one must queue up at 4:30pm and wait for a host to mysteriously appear from behind a literal veil of lace curtains for the opportunity to get one of three seatings for later that night. When you walk by the Mulberry street storefront in mid-afternoon, there is a line of fidgety foodies clamoring to be invited past the veiled window. What the old fashion window coverings are protecting is a mystery that only adds to aura and hype. Perhaps the veil is to protect the patrons who've made it in from the glaring oohs and ahhs of onlookers. Or perhaps instead to protect the passer-bys from the splendor that exists just beyond their reach. No matter what the reason the whole meal felt shrouded in secrecy and wonder. And I found it particularly comical when a random couple walked in at 8:30pm and asked for a table on the spot...ha! Those imbeciles! Don't they know what the rest of us have gone through to eat here?!?

Anyway, once we were finally seated and the wine started flowing I began to see, and be swept into, the hype. There is no formal menu, only an ever evolving prefix where the only choice your faced with is between two entrees. Luckily my table is the sharing kind so we get to try it all. We began with oysters - 2 per person - to get our palates going. Then on to the hand-pulled, house-made mozzarella in DaVero olive oil accompanied by buttery garlic bread with tomato (good start). Next the broccoli salad with crispy shallots (yum). Followed by the deliciously tender grilled octopus doused in a pepperoni vinaigrette (really delicious). The extremely delicate lambs tongue gyro followed (unbelievable). The dirty duck ragu over perfectly al dente Gemellis (holy cow that was yummy). Then onto the mains; Skate with pickled cauliflower and spicy Devil's Chicken over tangy yogurt (YAY!). We ended the meal with a venerable cornucopia of Italian pasties (and we asked for seconds of a few). Another bottle of wine and we called it a night. [Actually we sang like 20 rounds of karaoke at a bar around the corner but then we called it a truly satisfying night.]

And I'll admit, with all the buzz surrounding these guys and their recent food endeavors it was wonderful to walk away feeling that you can actually believe the hype.

Torrisi Italian Specialties
250 Mulberry Street

I keep paying $26 for that damn burger at Minetta Tavern

Minetta Tavern. This classic West Village establishment first opened its doors in 1937 and the vibe and mystique hasn't changed. This popular and crowded haunt feels like a vintage speakeasy that then and now is crawling with artists, village bohemians and jet set alike. It's been described as "Parisian steakhouse meets classic New York City tavern" and I couldn't put it better. But even though the environment feels ripped from the pages of the past, the menu prices have raced into the future. And with good reason.

Minetta Tavern is known for their $26 Black Label Burger. Love it or hate it, the BLB works hard for its price tag. The burger is a mixture of select cuts of beef from the famed La Frieda meat purveyor surrounded by some of the finest fixings around. A mixture of dry aged, prime NY strip, skirt steak and brisket floating on a Balthazar Bakery brioche, covered with sweetly sauteed onions and drizzled with clarified butter. This burger is pampered to perfection. It is so juicy, so decadent, so yummy--one bite and you'll understand all the attention (and $$).

While there may be buzz around the burger everything on the menu is noteworthy. Some of the appetizers - bone marrow with toasted baguette and shallot confit or the "classic" beef tartar - are amazing. And surprisingly, with a host of other delicious entrees to choose from, each time I come I can't help but ordering that damn burger!

Minetta Tavern
113 MacDougal btw Bleeker & West 3rd

I found my happy place at Brooklyn Fare.

I'll find any excuse to celebrate. So when I needed an excuse for us to be excessive at Brooklyn Fare I decided that the fact that I even got a reservation (for 7:45pm on a Saturday) was reason enough to throw a party. But then, just after I received our email confirmation, the accolades started rolling in-- Three Michelin stars! 29 in Zagats! Three stars in the NYTimes! Praise from almost every food writer in the tri-state. I knew that us going there was meant to be. Especially after our dining neighbors told us they called over 100 times to get their coveted seat. And all it took was me patiently calling their reservation line at 10:29am on the dot on a Monday morning 6 weeks prior. The phone rang, they answered, and we were in. (Editors note: my hapless but well intentioned husband tried for weeks to get a reservation, I suppose it takes a woman's touch.)

When we arrived at the 18 seat sanctuary I was actually nervous with excitement. There I was fidgeting as we stared awkwardly at the other patrons across the table who were part way through the earlier seating. But then I began to watch as César Ramirez's kitchen worked its magic...military precision, silence, artistry. It was beautiful. And everything in the place was minimally elegant and had a clear purpose. And then the food began...

We started the evening with a large shot glass of warm butternut squash soup topped with thick, cool greek yogurt foam. Perfection. It was clear we were in for an adventure. The meal is designed with 18 consecutive one bite dishes followed by 5 larger dishes and 2 desserts. The one bites are meant to be just that and their compositions are like mini masterpieces, each small component deliberately chosen to accentuate a flavor, smell or sense. (By the way, photos, phones and note taking are strictly discouraged so I just have to go with what sticks out in my memory) there was the thimble of salmon, creme, roe over celery & dill compote, the sardine weaved into a homemade potato chip, the fluke with pickled daikon, the oyster in a gelle of its own brine, the mini custard with dashi sauce, urchin, fois gras and truffle. Or my personal favorite of the small bites; the San Diego sea urchin on pillow like brioche with black truffle. Each taste was like a sweet and rich little gift.

On to the main courses which were somehow less impressive than the one bites but nonetheless delicious. Namely the pumpkin ravioli in mushroom sauce topped with a thinly shaved black truffle, the simple waygu beef, the lobster bite with veal ravioli and foie gras, the perfectly cooked duck breast and so on. We finished the evening with a sweet and refreshing lingonberry, frozen yogurt with gold leaf followed by a cinnamon apple cake with sweet salted oatmeal crumble. These descriptions don't do them justice.

I was practically catatonic I was so elated and overcome with beautiful sensory experience. But I guess that's to be expected when you enter your happy place.

Chef's Table at Brooklyn Fare
200 Schermerhorn Street
Brooklyn, NY

I would like a glass of wine.

When you reach a certain age in life it's important to have a neighborhood wine bar.

For us that wine bar is Terroir (East Village). We frequent this bar enough for the approachable bartenders and madcap chef to recognize us by face but probably not enough for them to know us by name (I might worry if we were that regular). Terroir is a great place to wallow time before or after your evening plans or to make a night of it with several glasses of wine and an order of their delicious Tomato & Egg bruschetta. This bruschetta is made with delicious thick and crusty bread, unbelievably fresh tomatoes and one oozing raw egg gingerly placed on top. It's single-handedly changed my view of the use of raw egg in food and changed some of my personal recipes, thank you very much Terrior.

Besides the bruschetta there are a lot of options on the munchies menu ranging from cheese, meats, small sandwiches and meatballs. But really the wine is the focus and it's pretty obvious that the staff loves their wine. They're super knowledgeable and patient as you peruse the large index of labels and types they carry.

For some reason the East Village Terroir gets far less buzz than its Tribeca sister but being the smaller and more under-the-radar of the two is just fine for me. With snacks this good, with wine this yummy and with a vibe that could make you want to sit there for the long haul, Terrior is a good spot for a neighborhood to have, especially my neighborhood.

Terroir
413 East 12th Street btw 1st/Ave A
24 Harrison Street @ Greenwich
Murray Hill location opening soon (not that I'll ever get there)

An homage to (and suggestions to replace) the dearly departed - Gonzo

If you're like me you've undoubtedly watched some of your favorite neighborhood restaurants come and go with little to no fanfare. Well enough! Respect needs to be paid. And alternatives need to be brought to light. Because over the years we've lost some greats. And I'm tired of pining for places that no longer exist.

Vincent Scotto of Gonzo did things with thin crust pizza that I've never seen before. Taking eight ounces of dough and spreading it out to the size of a small table then covering it with unique ingredients such as curried cauliflower, sweet onions, spiced goat cheese and cumin. This was the perfect neighborhood restaurant and I frequented it as much for the ambiance and wine list as for the food which was consistently great. So I was surprised and saddened to see it boarded up one day while walking the pup; I was even sadder to hear that it closed because Chef Scotto died of a heart attack at the young age of 39. Tragedy for us all...and I'm yet to find a suitable replacement. I've heard that Gonzo sibling restaurant Scotto's pizza is very similar but I'm yet to sample it so can't fully endorse it.

But in the interest of life goes on it's time for me to go on too and find a surrogate for this thin crust mecca. While it might not be exactly the same type of pie I've been taking great solace at Motorino East Village. I've found that this Neapolitan style pizza is delicious and even though I favor the classic Margherita pie, having toppings like Brussel Sprouts & Pancetta or Stone Clams & Parsley Butter really helps get through the loss of Gonzo.

The Dearly Departed posts will be continued with other recommendation to fill the void in all our hearts left by the closing of LAN, Share, 9th Street Market, Harbour, Irving Mill and Kitchen Club to name a few. Feel free to send condolences or recommendations.

Scarpetta: Italian Food for Non-Italian Food lovers

I realize that I am somewhat of an oddity because I don't love love love Italian food. And I know that for many people a heaping plate of pasta, a nice glass of chianti and lots and lots of bread dipped in olive oil is all they need for a happy night. But while that isn't my idea of a particularly exciting or fully satisfying meal it doesn't mean I can't appreciate an incredible Italian experience when it's upon me...and having eaten at Scarpetta several times now I can say this is the place to enjoy Italian food.

Scarpetta is an incredible blend of elegant, chic comfort and freshly perfected Italian craftsmanship. And that sensibility shines through in every dish. They worship fresh ingredients and treat those ingredients with the respect and attention needed. Dishes are not over-seasoned; you can look at the plate and practically see every ingredient in the dish. And that is what makes them perfect in their simplicity.

To begin, the Raw Yellowtail drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with flaked pink sea salt is so fresh and sweet and good you might wonder why every meal isn't this uncomplicated and delicious. If only every Italian restaurant would stop wasting ingredients and resolve to serve basic, high quality food; letting their fresh flavors shine through.

Next comes the Pièce de résistance or as my mother refers to it "the dish that Jay-Z and Beyonce eat when they come here"...anyway, it is quite possibly the simplest of all the dishes on the menu: Spaghetti, tomato & basil. That's it. Three ingredients. End of story, goodnight.

Just kidding. The Spaghetti at Scarpetta is just so damn good. And it is only three ingredients. But those ingredients are the best versions of themselves and proportioned in a way that bite after bite you will find yourself ascending an ethereal food coma. If I'm not overstating it enough--simplicity is near perfection! And Scarpetta is the closest I've come to a perfect Italian meal. Goodnight (for real).

Scarpetta
355 West 14th Street @ 9th Ave
New York, NY

In the mood for Mexican?

It's a rare occasion when I find myself really in the mood for Mexican. It's not that I don't enjoy a good margarita with guac & chips, it's just that the cuisine itself doesn't often leave me that satisfied...culinarily.

But when the mood does strike me (as I'd say it does strongly about thrice a year) there are a few places that meet my high standards for quality Mexican. Recently I had the opportunity to visit two of said establishments.

Mercadito is a great East Village spot--seemingly very small from the street but enter the back room and you'll feel like you've been transported to a Mexican Hacienda smack in the middle of the city. Mercadito has an impressive selection of adorable, little, fun-for-sharing tacos with ingredients such as ancho rubbed pork with grilled pineapple, sauteed tilapia with grilled corn & manchego or chicken with sweet plantains. And who could forget the excellent variety of the guacamole (chunky with fruit or freshly smoked, yum!). But my personal favorite are the ceviches and wouldn't you know it you can order a "sampler" and get 3 at once! The tiny scallops with strawberries, key lime-habanero broth and mint! The mahi-mahi with avacado, tomato and orange-chile! The octopus, shrimp, jicama and orange! Yum Yum Yum! The ceviches are so good they have me rethinking my 3 times a year Mexican fix.

For the times I find myself wandering the West Village and the Mexican food craving hits, I really enjoy the new hot spot, Empellon. Empellon is the love child of Alex Stupak, former pastry chef from WD~50 and Alinea, who apparently is equally adept at making tacos as he is making avant garde desserts. In this setting you'll find the crowd is a little fancier and so is the food. The guacamole is creamy not chunky and the cocktails have fancy oak aged Reposado tequila. But the tacos, oh the tacos. My personal favorite is the sweet Scallops with cauliflower, capers and raisins. The Skirt Steak with olive oil, lime and toasted garlic was a hit at the table too. And who could forget the sides--the Refried Black Beans with a spicy habanero kick and the Sweet Plantains were delicious.

After dining at these two fantastic Mexican restaurants I think my cravings are gonna be coming a little more frequently...

Uptown at the Four Seasons

You've probably guessed by now that I live downtown. And it must seem like I rarely go above 14th street unless a paycheck is involved but about once a year my family ventures uptown (and back in time) to the original old school fancy pants eatery...the Four Seasons. Pool side of course.

I like to begin an evening at the 4S by letting the waiter know I've been there before by proudly ordering the souffle before he can offer it (it takes a while to prepare so they insist you order it with cocktails but we'll get to desserts later).

The food at the 4S is consistently good and elegant but it's not mindblowing. The real thrill of being there is the experience of being there itself. The waitstaff that's been on salary for a quarter century and probably make more than your CEO. The shimmery window coverings that look like an elegant copper gown. And then there actually is the clientele at the next table wearing an elegant copper gown and dripping with more diamonds than 47th street herself. It's a fun place to people watch and to aimlessly stare at the Picasso tapestry and Rothko Reds on the wall. Notice yet again that the food isn't the focus. And while the food is excellent it wouldn't be the same without the setting.

Over the years I can recall great steaks and excellent Cesar salads and delicate, moist fishes but not one really stands out. It's a good place to go for your parents wedding anniversary or a big birthday. Everyone talks about the famous power lunches that take place in the Grill Room but for me it will always be my big fancy New York dinner in that cold yet rich feeling Pool Room.

Oh yes, the desserts. I said I'd come back to them. Worth noting that the souffles are amazing and we always have two (one for the table and one for me of course). But my sister always lights up when they bring out the heaping mountain of cotton candy which hides a surprise ice cream scoop. The cotton candy isn't on the menu but by now almost every other table is eating one so shoot a sweet smile to the Maitre D' and you're in!

The Four Seasons
99 East 52nd Street btw Park & Lex

Simpler times at Corner Bistro

Ahh...Corner Bistro...brings me back to a simpler time in my life when running around the city until all hours of the night and sustaining myself on burgers and beer seemed a viable existence...cue Barbara Streisand singing "Memories."

The famous burgers and beer watering-hole has long been a cornerstone for students, tourists, and New Yorkers alike. Corner Bistro is less of a restaurant and more of a youthful time and place for me. Are the burgers that much better than the ones from your regular greasy spoon grill down the street? It's debatable. But you can't go to Corner Bistro without magically being transported to a pre-workaday stress life...or maybe it's all the $2.50 beers you consume while being on line for 45 minutes that brings you to a better state of mind.

Either way by the time you get your seat and take a bite into that famous Bistro Burger (with cheese and bacon) you will have a new appreciation for the concept of delayed gratification. The burger and perfectly thin, crispy fries will be exactly what you had hoped they would be after 45 minutes of McSorely's Ales and anticipation.

Corner Bistro
331 West 4th St. at Jane