Building my encyclopedia of tastes

The deeper I get into the culinary program at SF Cooking School the more I realize that I am, and always have been, curating a collection of food experiences.  Or as guest instructor, Chef Brandon Jew put it, we are creating an encyclopedia of tastes.  With each new bite I am enriching and refining my collection.  School has solidified food as art to me.  And what an artform it is!  There will never be a time when I can pack it up and say I've tasted everything that food has to offer and that makes this endeavor even more beautiful and exciting. 

Recently we were fortunate to procure a coveted seat at Lazy Bear, a San Francisco underground supper-club which takes place several nights a month at a warehouse/art studio. Forty diners are invited to sit along two communal tables and feast on a 10+ course meal created by Chef David Barzelay and his band of intrepid staff and volunteers (many of the kitchen and wait staff are stagiaire).  

When we arrived at the abandoned-looking building on a dusty industrial street a sign reading "Institute of Possibilities" greeted us.  We weren't quite sure what we were walking into, but like Beauty entering the Beast's castle, it was surprisingly warm once inside.  Once we were seated next to our new friends, the wine and conversation began flowing and mini masterpieces streamed forth from the kitchen.  As each dish arrived I was continually awed by the subtle use of unique ingredients.  The amuse bouche - an airy sabayon infused with bacon, maple syrup and cayenne.  The squab with grits, burnt cabbages, persimmon butter and chanterelles was a sweet autumnal plate.  Even the homemade brioche and butter were special.  Each dish was a highlight, each flavor a revelation and each bite was a welcome addition to my ever-growing encyclopedia of tastes.

The Grand Experiment

This weekend, in preparation for the first major exam of the school year, I decided the best way to prepare was to pick a selection of recipes that cover a wide range of skills we've learned...and then attempt to cook them all at once.

I invited a couple of forgiving friends over and decided to attempt this feat. Now you may recall that I came to culinary school with a great love and passion for restaurants, food and the culinary arts, not cooking.  I have never been an active home cook and no offense to my mother and grandmother, did not come from a home where cooking was a pleasure.  Cooking always seemed like a chore in my childhood home.  But throughout culinary school I have been determined to swing that pendulum and learn to love the process of cooking as much as I love the eating.

What I'm calling 'the grand experiment' (hopefully we'll graduate to 'dinner party' in the near future) began this past Thursday when I picked the menu.  From there, a trip to the restaurant supply store, a detailed shopping list and a step-by-step prep list we're created.  This was a complex undertaking, requiring a lot of thought.  Should I brunoise the carrots in the morning or while the soufflé was in the oven?  Should I infuse the milk while the chicken was resting or while I dress the salad? Should I start drinking copious amounts of wine before the guests arrive or after?* 

Now that the evening has come and gone, I can honestly say that it was a huge success! We began with a spinach salad with creamy mustard vinaigrette accompanied by brunoise carrots and best-of-the-season cherry tomatoes.  Immediately followed by sauteed Chicken with a mushroom and shallot white wine and demi-glace sauce accompanied by goat cheese souffles.  For dessert we had meringue 'floating islands' surrounded by creme anglaise and berries.  In the end it wasn't all the positive feedback that my friends and husband rained upon me, or the oohs-and-ahhs as they ate, or even the fact that everyone cleaned their plates down to the last bite that made me sure it was a success...it was that after the evening was finished and we were all glowing and full, my friends turned to me and with completely genuine looks in their eyes said, "you made it look so easy and fun."  It was in that off-the-cuff bit of feedback that it occurred to me...maybe I've transitioned from a person who loves to eat to a person who loves the entire food related process.  I just hope that'll be on the exam. 

*My mother would like me to note that in the end I opted not to drink any wine during The Grand Experiment. 

Heating up

As week four begins I am shocked at how quickly the previous three weeks of culinary school have flown by and how much ground we've covered in such a short time.  It's been a whirlwind of soups and sauces and knife skills (oh my).  And after we begin to master one skill or recipe, we start over again with the same but slightly different one.  My mind is full of measurements and methods and variations of all the projects.  

As we move forward I am becoming extremely thankful for the luxury of being able to repeat repeat repeat.  That's one of the primary differences between a robust home cook and a full time culinary student - the luxury of repeating the same project until you get it right.  Or really the luxury to get the project wrong and then learn why or how to make it better.  I'm also having a whole new appreciation for the expression 'if you can't handle the heat, get out of the kitchen.'  Life in a professional kitchen is not for the faint of heart.  And while sometimes I'm screaming with fear inside my head, on the outside I keep telling myself to be brave and press onward.  I mean, what's really the worst that could happen other than scalding myself with 300° caramel or stabbing myself with my razor sharp 10 inch knife?

In all seriousness though I am finding my natural proclivity towards organization, detail and living with considered intentions are serving me well.  In fact some of my key take-aways so far are; do not put off something you can do now for later; clean as you go; be respectful of your tools; and above all organization and efficiency are your best friends.  These lessons apply beyond the kitchen...I just hope my husband can get on board with the new military precision efficiency being implemented around the house. 

Other fun thoughts I wanted to share.  Did you know butter consists of fat, water and milk solid - that's it - and if you remove the water and milk solids by heating (water evaporates) and then separating (milk solid will sink to the bottom) you are left with pure, clear, solid-fat clarified butter.  Think about that the next time you're dousing that lobster claw!  You can infuse almost any liquid (milk, water, liquor, etc) by heating it with an ingredient (vanilla, nutmeg, lemon zest, etc) then covering and allowing to steep.  Think of that the next time you have a tea party!  Making a delicious soup is easier than you think - sweat aromatics (cook sliced onion, leek or garlic in butter or oil until soft), add ingredient (any vegetable!) and stock, cook and then puree or blend until smooth and adjust seasoning.  Enjoy!

Week 1, Day 1

Like millions of children nationwide, I woke up on this first weekday after Labor Day ready to go back to school.  I had almost forgotten about the rush of anticipation and nerves that surge over you as you frantically get back into the morning routine after months (in my case almost a year) of non-routine living.  I was a whirlwind.  Waking up with the sun and peeking at my alarm every 20 minutes until it rang out, I finally popped out of bed, got dressed, ate a sensible breakfast with Charlie Rose in the background, strapped on my backpack, laced up my sneakers and was off.  Hubby decided to accompany me on the 2-mile walk to school, snapping photos and sharing words of encouragement just as a proud parent (or in this case partner) should on such an occasion.

Arriving at school I walked into a hub of activity; students finding uniforms, claiming lockers, awe-ing at our new knife kits!!!!  Considering it's been a good 10 years since I was in any school setting, I was eager to soak up as much as I possibly could and make some friends along the way.  I decided to ask as many questions as I could think of and really listen when others did the same.  Did you know that farmer's market eggs aren't washed, or that you can scrape mold off hard cheese and still eat it, or that 1 ounce of butter is 2 tablespoons, or that 1 1/2 quarts of soup serves 6 people? Well, neither did I.

My new classmates are as interesting and unique as I'd hoped they'd be.  There is the Alabama restaurateur who temporarily moved to SF just for this program.  The 18-year-old, fresh out of high school, scion of a farming dynasty who’s passion is in food preparation.  A woman who sold a successful company to finally follow her dream of pursuing a culinary education.  A stay-at-home-mom who decided now is her time!  I'm sure I'll get to know my 12 classmates well and look forward to being fascinated by each of them. 

Walking home after the first day, my mind and stomach full, I realized that if every day is as varied and busy as today I’m in for an incredible year.

Back in the Kitchen...Finally

It's been a while since I've posted.  I can't really explain the lapse other than life has gotten away from me as it sometimes tends to.  And it's not because I haven't had things to talk about...there was a fabulous evening at The Restaurant at Meadowood; new neighborhood standards such as St. Vincent and Namu Gaji and Izakaya Yuzuki and Frances (love their 'pay for what you drink' wine carafes!); there's been trips to Hawaii and home to NYC and Martha's Vineyard and Napa, then Napa, and Napa again.  But for some unknown reason, as much as I tried, I was unable to turn to you and share my stories.  But I'm hopeful that my upcoming plans will be the catalyst I've been waiting for to bring me back here.  Beginning next week, I am the newest full-time culinary student at the SF Cooking School!

As I plan to embark on this new chapter of my life, I'm brought back to the last time I was this excited and eager -- the day I decided to run a marathon.  At that time the farthest I had ever run was a mere 5 miles.  But a fire inside me had grown and I knew it would not subside until I completed every step of those 26.2 miles.  Now, years later, I frequently reminisce about my marathon and how that experience helped shape who I am today.  I feel almost exactly the same type of trepidation and enthusiasm about beginning culinary school.  I know it will be a challenge...but one I'm ready to take on.

And while I'm not 100% sure what my life will look like on the other side of the culinary school finish line I am compelled to make the most of this exciting experience...and share it here, with you.  So stay tuned!

The quest for Sushi in SF

Almost from the moment we landed in San Francisco we have been searching for the perfect sushi restaurant.  A restaurant to satisfy our discerningly high sushi standards.  Mind you that weeks before moving to SF we had returned from a fabulously sushi filled trip to Japan, and prior to that we had spent the last 10 years spoiled by the top quality fish of NYC.  It's not that we didn't think we could find good sushi in SF, we just weren't sure if we'd be able to find that elusive 'regular' place.  A place where you can return week after week to scratch that sushi itch and not break the bank in doing so.  After some missteps and overpriced experiments we found ourselves at Ichi, the Bernal Heights sushi haven nestled amidst Mexican restaurants and mostly residential properties.  The only problem, we weren't the only people who found themselves with Ichi as their regular sushi fix. 

We thought we were so clever this past Friday trying to beat the crowd for an early dinner at 6:45pm.  Alas, we vastly underestimating the clamor for good sushi in this neck of the woods.  I almost thought twice about posting this for fear the line would get longer...but who am I kidding?  I don't have that kind of influence.  On our recent visit a coveted seat for omakase at the gregarious sushi chef's counter would be a considerable wait, even at such an early hour, so we opted for a shorter wait and table service.  Away from the counter, service is slower, but as soon as the glistening mouthwatering pieces began arriving we forgave and forgot the extra few minutes they traveled.  The wait is totally worth it to experience Chef Tim's take on traditional sushi.  Even I, who consider myself a sushi purist and strict traditionalist bow to Ichi's modern twist. 

Tender and sweet Ocean Trout with yuzu, yuzukosho, red sea salt and shiso leaf was the first bite to wow us table-side.  Butter-like Shiro Maguro (tuna) painted with a light garlic ginger yuzu was so wonderful it brought us back to Tsukiji in our minds.  The raw slices of Wagyu beef tasted like a lightly seared burger coated with sweet yet savory apple cider vinegar.  Perfectly plump spheres of Ikura (salmon roe) marinated in a yuzu bath and floating atop warm rice and crispy nori awoke our taste buds.  Succulent scallop dusted with green tea salt was so delicate it practically melted in our mouths before we could bite.  Triple A quality Uni dusted with a yuzu mirin flavor and a petite dollop of fresh grated wasabi was a perfect last bite before we ordered each piece again for a second round. 

The fish at Ichi is so fresh and prepared with perfect complimentary marinades, it's no wonder people line up for a seat.  After finishing our meal and sitting back to enjoy the remains of our sake, I caught myself staring at the steady stream of hungry and anxious hopeful diners adding their names to the wait list...and in that moment it occurred to me...next week we should get here at 5:45pm. 



Ichi
3369 Mission Street (at Godeus Street)
San Francisco, CA 94110

The privileges of California life

Sometimes I think about how blessed my life is and I'm overwhelmed.  The ability to go and do and taste and savor is not a privilege I take lightly.  And on several recent jaunts up to Napa Valley I have felt moments of breathtaking beauty and tasted the truest of indulgences.

It was not lost on me, during one of those jaunts this past February, that while my East Coast family awoke to driveways and sidewalks in need of shoveling, I awoke with the bright California sun and popped out of bed like a kid on Christmas morning.  We were up early to drive to Yountville for the coveted daytime seating at French Laundry, Thomas Keller's wine region mecca of French fare and delicacies.  The drive up flew by, the warm sun and cool air streaming in as we sped over the Golden Gate Bridge with windows down and radio up towards our culinary adventure.
 

We pull up to French Laundry on the idyllic street in Yountville and were suddenly transported to a provincial French town.  A town where men in white aprons ride antique style bicycle with baskets full of fresh bread from Bouchon Bakery to the restaurant several times a day.  Where wine pours generously from local vintners.  Where food is sourced from the finest purveyors and prepared with a French influence -- full of butter and layered with rich flavors.  A town where taking time to savor tastes and aromas isn’t only a common practice, it’s a way of life. 

The meal begins with the only course that has been included on every menu since French Laundry opened its doors in 1994; the butter poached oyster with caviar and tapioca pearls.  I needed to pause while eating it and I need to pause while recalling it because rarely have I tasted something so buttery sweet and decadently silken.  The oyster's spherical pearl hearts are lightly bathed in a hot butter; each bite practically melts on your tongue the moment your taste buds awake from their monotonous daily slumber.  I practically could have ended the meal there.  But of course we were in for the almost 5-hour long haul.

The afternoon and the wine flowed.  A few plates later and we were sampling the brown butter-poached Maine lobster "fricassee" over a ranch bean style base accompanied by crisp radish and romaine lettuce all dusted with sweet cornbread. The tender veal with salty artichoke, olive, Swiss chard, and a tomato confection was constructed to optimize the flavor combinations; layer after layer of salt and butter and earth.  Several plates later the dessert courses were introduced with a pomegranate soda, an effervescent concoction over fleur de sel shortbread and topped with a dollop of jasmine ice cream.  Dessert continued with a chocolate and passion fruit roll and an unlimited (although we didn't test that) selection of Chef Keller's favorite truffles - my personal favorite were the hazelnut and guava.

The day ended in a wine and butter soaked haze but not before a brief tour of the pristine kitchen, we waved at our NYC friends over the closed-circuit camera to Per Se's kitchen.  And then we stumbled into the cool crisp California evening, a refreshing change after the half-day of dining.  We wandered around Yountville as the sun set and twilight came into focus.  Preparing to leave Yountville and head back to SF, I found that I was satiated in a way that can only experienced when your heart is filled with beauty.  Beauty from the spectacular landscape of Northern California and beauty from the overwhelming culinary experience we had just shared.  What a privilege indeed.

The French Laundry
6640 Washington Street 
Yountville, CA

We're Rich!

I became entranced by the choreography of the kitchen.  Waiting for our table, standing not three feet from the chef's station, I was unable to look away from the agile movements of the cooks.  As I calmly sipped my "Turkey Trot" cocktail (which contained whiskey, butternut squash, honey and meringue) the frenetic yet deliberate actions taking place nearby were hypnotic.  And it was while watching the plates come to life that I turned to my husband and almost without thinking said "we're having the tasting menu," to which he responded with wide eyes and a childlike smile that said, "hell yes, we are."  And thus began our evening at Rich Table.

After being seated at the rustic wood table in the busy yet casually chic and warm dining room, the wine started flowing and we put ourselves in the hands of the "Chef's Picks" menu.  I slowly began to feel that despite the restaurant's name (inspired by Chefs Evan and Sarah Rich) and the pedigree of the purveyors, this was a comfortable and approachable space.  We would be experiencing a rich meal but on an attainable level. 

We began with a cornucopia of strong appetizers.  The standouts included the homemade potato chips woven with whole sardines and sitting atop a horseradish cream.  We were almost speechless while devouring the chicken liver mouse sprinkled with confetti of crunchy puffed rice and dollops of sweet and tart pomegranate jelly; the range of textures along with the sweet and savory flavors made for an awe-inducing bite.  The salad of roasted beets, pomegranate and chocolate shavings allowed us to momentarily skip to dessert before being pulled back to the savory again, all in one mouthful.  The next course consisted of perfectly al dente yet buttery soaked pastas conveying seasonal meats and herbs touched with traces of pungent cheeses.  The final savory courses, artful trout almondine atop spinach and wild greens, and hearty strip streak with chimichurri and white mushrooms, rounded out the meal and completed the gamut of flavors and weights.  The evening ended with a refreshing yet whimsical milk ice cream and chocolate cracker all kissed by mint chocolate cream. 

Perhaps it was the KickStarter-funded backstory that we learned about which made our experience so inviting, but something kept this extraordinarily rich meal down to earth.  The food was ambitious but not intimidating.  The preparations were daring but not overwhelming.  The flavors were delicious but not exceedingly complex.   Our evening was rich but not more than we could afford.

Rich Table
199 Gough @ Oak
San Francisco

I'm still here.

I'm not exactly sure why it's taken me this long to post something about our new home.  I think I have been overwhelmed by all the new and incredible experiences.  And while there have been many personal and culinary adventures that I've wanted to share I think it's the newness of it all that has been holding me back.  It may be the fact that I don't know the San Francisco landscape as well as I knew the New York one and my voice has been temporarily stunted.  Whatever the reason, the words just have not been flowing like they used to.

Until recently at Local's Corner restaurant, a neighborhood alcove fast becoming a favorite, where it occurred to me...no one expects me to have completely devoured the SF restaurant scene in 3 months! I need to lay the pressure off!   It is hard enough to have a deep and meaningful experience at a restaurant and we've barely been in town long enough to form thoughtful opinions.

So, I would like to take this opportunity to state for the record what I think the point of this blog actually is.  While it surely leans towards a restaurant and sometimes travel blog my goals are far more personal and esoteric. As the blogs' title casually suggests (in addition to being my initials) the purpose is to add love (aka AMOR) to the world; and as a result I try not to speak disparagingly about a restaurant or experience (afterall, what good does that add to the world?). Ultimately I want to share thoughts on all the things I love; whether it be activities, people, places and of course food.  I'd like my musings, in their small way, to add value to the universe.

And while this post may veer dangerously close to a ramble as opposed to a musing I'd like to share it with anyone who's interested...and hopefully it will serve as a reminder that there's more to come, more to explore, more to share...and that I'm still here.

Baby steps

Citrus & squid salad @ Flour + Water

It could take a small lifetime to really know a city.  It took me my lifetime up to this point to feel like I really knew New York and even so my expertise was concentrated in and around the East Village.  But in recent years I had been feeling that I really knew the NYC restaurant scene.  And just when I reached the point in life when I felt comfortable calling myself a real New Yorker we go and uproot our lives and move to San Francisco!

Smoked trout w/ beets, huckleberries & toasted seeds @ Central Kitchen

Here I find myself, a little over one week in to our West Coast life, and I'm a bit overwhelmed.  Overwhelmed by the newness, by the unknown, by the odd weather, by creating a new home for us but mostly I'm overwhelmed by all the restaurants I'm yet to try.  I feel so behind the curve.  It helps that the content of our home (including all our kitchen supplies) are still on their trans-America road trip and we've had out-of-town house-guests which has forced us to eat out almost every meal. In the last few days we've been able to sample some of the amazing gems in our neighborhood - Flour + Water, Lot 7, Universal Cafe, Foreign Cinema, Hog & Rocks, Namu Gaji, Mission Chinese, Blowfish Sushi and Central Kitchen to name a few.  And for good measure we threw in a cone at Bi-Rite Creamery (holy cow, that was possibly the best ice cream of my life) and Humphry Slocombe to round out the week.  I feel like my head (and stomach) is spinning.

Sushi @ Blowfish SF

I plan to revisit and hopefully write about many of these but for now I'm just trying to take it all in.  I'm trying to learn my new neighborhood and gradually expand the radius of places I can say I "know".  I'm hopping on my new bike (which I named Harrison),  exploring my new surroundings and giving myself a little time to just live.  And once the dust settles and our stuff arrives from New York I'll take more than a baby step towards knowing our new life.  I'll take a leap right into the thick of this new place.  And one day, in the not so distance future, San Francisco won't feel so strange and new...it'll just feel like home.

Adventure awaits

Sometimes fate steps in to shake up your life.  In my case I've recently been tempting fate by becoming enamored with West Coast living.  And as she tends to do, fate is delivering.  Because as of tomorrow morning I am a San Franciscan.  And aside from leaving my beloved NYC, my family, my friends and the home I hold so dearly, I am ready for this West Coast adventure. I am ready to take a leap outside my comfort zone; to take a chance on a new locale, a career change and embrace the exploring spirit.  I'm ready to take husby's hand, close my eyes...and jump.  And most of all I'm ready to see what I find out about myself when I shake things up.  What will happen when I leave the city and community I've lived in almost my entire life?  What will I create when I am out of work for the first time since I was 15?  How will I face each morning when I am completely autonomous over my days; I can choose to create and seize my own opportunities over and over.  And who knows, I could miss the frenetic pace I know in NY and be overcome by homesickness.  But even if that happens I know this adventure will be a positive one in the story of my life.  Because what is life without a little nerve racking, unplanned, eye-closed jumping.

....New York will always be in my blood and in my heart.  But I think my mind and soul are ready for California.