The privileges of California life

Sometimes I think about how blessed my life is and I'm overwhelmed.  The ability to go and do and taste and savor is not a privilege I take lightly.  And on several recent jaunts up to Napa Valley I have felt moments of breathtaking beauty and tasted the truest of indulgences.

It was not lost on me, during one of those jaunts this past February, that while my East Coast family awoke to driveways and sidewalks in need of shoveling, I awoke with the bright California sun and popped out of bed like a kid on Christmas morning.  We were up early to drive to Yountville for the coveted daytime seating at French Laundry, Thomas Keller's wine region mecca of French fare and delicacies.  The drive up flew by, the warm sun and cool air streaming in as we sped over the Golden Gate Bridge with windows down and radio up towards our culinary adventure.
 

We pull up to French Laundry on the idyllic street in Yountville and were suddenly transported to a provincial French town.  A town where men in white aprons ride antique style bicycle with baskets full of fresh bread from Bouchon Bakery to the restaurant several times a day.  Where wine pours generously from local vintners.  Where food is sourced from the finest purveyors and prepared with a French influence -- full of butter and layered with rich flavors.  A town where taking time to savor tastes and aromas isn’t only a common practice, it’s a way of life. 

The meal begins with the only course that has been included on every menu since French Laundry opened its doors in 1994; the butter poached oyster with caviar and tapioca pearls.  I needed to pause while eating it and I need to pause while recalling it because rarely have I tasted something so buttery sweet and decadently silken.  The oyster's spherical pearl hearts are lightly bathed in a hot butter; each bite practically melts on your tongue the moment your taste buds awake from their monotonous daily slumber.  I practically could have ended the meal there.  But of course we were in for the almost 5-hour long haul.

The afternoon and the wine flowed.  A few plates later and we were sampling the brown butter-poached Maine lobster "fricassee" over a ranch bean style base accompanied by crisp radish and romaine lettuce all dusted with sweet cornbread. The tender veal with salty artichoke, olive, Swiss chard, and a tomato confection was constructed to optimize the flavor combinations; layer after layer of salt and butter and earth.  Several plates later the dessert courses were introduced with a pomegranate soda, an effervescent concoction over fleur de sel shortbread and topped with a dollop of jasmine ice cream.  Dessert continued with a chocolate and passion fruit roll and an unlimited (although we didn't test that) selection of Chef Keller's favorite truffles - my personal favorite were the hazelnut and guava.

The day ended in a wine and butter soaked haze but not before a brief tour of the pristine kitchen, we waved at our NYC friends over the closed-circuit camera to Per Se's kitchen.  And then we stumbled into the cool crisp California evening, a refreshing change after the half-day of dining.  We wandered around Yountville as the sun set and twilight came into focus.  Preparing to leave Yountville and head back to SF, I found that I was satiated in a way that can only experienced when your heart is filled with beauty.  Beauty from the spectacular landscape of Northern California and beauty from the overwhelming culinary experience we had just shared.  What a privilege indeed.

The French Laundry
6640 Washington Street 
Yountville, CA